A new study is raising serious questions about the safety of hair extensions widely used by Black women, after researchers identified a range of potentially harmful chemicals in popular products.
Scientists from the Silent Spring Institute analyzed 43 hair extension products sourced both online and from beauty supply stores. Across those samples, researchers detected 169 different chemical compounds. Many of those substances are commonly used in industrial materials like plastics, pesticides, and flame retardants.
According to the study, 41 out of the 43 products tested contained at least one hazardous chemical. Some of the substances identified are already flagged under California’s Proposition 65, which tracks chemicals linked to cancer, reproductive harm, and birth defects. Researchers also found 17 compounds associated with breast cancer present in the majority of the samples tested.
Among the chemicals identified were benzyl chloride, used in manufacturing processes and classified as a possible carcinogen, and phthalates such as DEHP and dibutyl phthalate—compounds often used to make plastics more flexible.
The study also detected organotin compounds in several samples, which researchers note are uncommon in consumer beauty products.
“It was the organotin compounds that stood out to us,” said Elissia Franklin, lead author of the study. “We do know that they are linked to cancer and hormone disruption.”
Health experts report that exposure can occur in multiple ways. Chemicals may be absorbed through the scalp during wear, inhaled during heat styling, or transferred through repeated handling—particularly for professional stylists and braiders.
Dr. Chris Pernell, director of the NAACP Center for Health Equity, noted that stylists may face higher exposure risks due to constant contact with these materials. She added that although some of the chemicals are known carcinogens, further research is needed to fully understand the long-term health effects of prolonged use.
The findings add to a growing body of research examining the safety of beauty products marketed to Black women. Previous studies have linked chemical hair relaxers and straighteners to increased risks of uterine cancer, especially with long-term or frequent use.
Despite the risks, ingredient transparency remains limited. Many hair extension products do not list their chemical contents on packaging, leaving consumers without clear information about what they’re using.
Some policy efforts are underway to address the issue. Federal proposals, including the Cosmetic Safety Protections for Communities of Color and Salon Workers Act, aim to strengthen oversight of beauty products.
At the state level, legislation in New York would require warning labels on hair products containing toxic substances.
For now, researchers suggest looking for products labeled “non-toxic” and limiting exposure where possible, though they emphasize that broader industry regulation is needed to ensure safer options for Black women who rely on these products.