Image via Complex Original
There are always arguments on what city ranks as the undisputed fashion capital of the world. London, Milan, New York, and Paris are always in the conversation. But in terms of pulling off more advanced style, Tokyo straight up kills it. No where is fashion more progressive. That's why designers look to this city when they need inspiration for new collections. The style subcultures found in districts like Harajuku, Ginza, and Shibuya, just to name a few, are unmatched in Europe or the US.
There are a variety of styles underneath the Japanese fashion umbrella. Since many of these style tribes can easily crossover and change season to season, classifying them is not easy. Each group is separated into certain kei (style) sub-genres, and there are tons of magazines that target each demographic. As for authenticity when adopting other culture's styles, the Japanese execute everything perfectly down to the smallest detail. If you’re travelling to Japan or just want to find out what kei you fall under, here is A Guide to the Fashion Subcultures of Japan.
RELATED: The Complex Guide to Buying Japanese Brands Online
RELATED: The 50 Greatest Japanese Brands of All Time
RELATED: 10 Japanese Men's Style Magazines You Should Know
LIKE COMPLEX STYLE ON FACEBOOK
Kireime kei
This is a conservative dress style that's kept very minimal. The goal is not to have statement pieces or peacock to stand out, but to keep everything neat and traditional. Preppy and Ivy League looks are dominant. You won’t find any style risks here. Magazines like Men's Joker cater to this group.
Salon Boy
Started by men in beauty school, this style is definitely a more feminine look. Salon boys mix high and low fashion from designer brands to used clothes, and coordinate their looks by paying close attention to accessories. Hats, scarves, belts, and sunglasses, they all sweat the small details. And of course they’re hairstyles have to be on point. A popular magazine where you can find this style is the publication Choki Choki.
Japanese Chicanos
Don’t be surprised when you go to Japan and find a person who is not of Mexican descent waving the white, green, and red flag proudly. In addition Americana, the Japanese have also adopted the Chicano culture. This style set fully absorbs the cholo lifestyle by adopting the full khaki with the a cuff and crease look. But that’s not all, flannel shirts, Nike Cortez shoes, Loc shades, and braids are also part of the style. You can probably see them around Japan riding around their low-riders, and blasting a mix of their favorite Japanese cholo and chola artists. Talk about going native.
Mode
As the most high-fashion set on the list, you will find these guys dressed in nothing less than the best. Label names are important to this group. The style is similar to kireimi kei but is more flamboyant, and they aim for higher price point brands like Dior Homme and Prada. You can find these guys reading publications like gap Press Men, men’s FUDGE, Vogue Hommes Japan (R.I.P.).
Visual kei
Similar to Rockabilly, Visual kei is a fashion style based on a musical subculture. The roots of the style came from Japanese Rock (J Rock) bands that emerged in the ‘80s. Looks can range from glam rock to punk/goth hybrids, so expect a lot of Mötley Crüe type styles. This includes wild haircuts and androgynous looks involving tons of makeup. Accessories include arm warmers, goggles, and studded bracelets just to name a few. They favor brands like h.Naoto and Sex Pot Revenge, but if you’re creative enough you can make your own DIY-outfits. You can find this style set around the Harajuko district of Japan.
Urahara kei
Uraraha refers to the hidden back alleys of Harajuko, so those who shop at the many secondhand stores are usually the ones labeled with Urahara style. The style involves lots of layers, and a mix of casual brands and vintage items.
Rockabilly
Next to buying up old shuttle looms from American manufactures and making denim the way it should be done, rockabilly culture is another example the Japanese don’t joke around when it comes to getting all the aesthetics of authenticity correct. These are mostly older men and women who love the ‘50s greaser look. Men are clad in all black leather and sport perfectly coiffed pompadours, while the women sport polka dot dresses and ribbons on their hair. You can find them reenacting scenes from Grease in Japan’s Yoyogi Park.
Gyaruo
If Japan had an equivalent to Jersey Shore style, Gyaruo’s would fit the mold. They love tanning, put on major amounts of hairspray, wear flashy shades, and have the whole Abercrombie beach look. But that’s not all: This style tribe has sub-categories that borrow military, rocker, or biker styles. Their female counterparts, the gyaru, also have the same identifiable tanned surfer girl style. And true to their American Jersey Shore counterparts, they’re all about that club life.
Onii kei
This style group references rocker and military looks. Onii kei’s wear mostly dark clothes, bleached hair, and an open shirt—it's a more refined Gyaruo style. Often associated with Japanese Hosuto or male hosts who entertain women for a living (sort of like an escort without the happy ending). What sets them apart from their club loving Gyaruo’s is that they don’t go as crazy when they dress. Their sense of style is more geared towards flashy high-end fashion without being over-the-top.
Street kei
These are the Hypebeasts of Japan. Street kei style plays on the latest trends and is influenced by skate steez and American casual styles. Similar to urahara kei but without as much thrifted clothes. Essential reading material includes Street Jack, Ollie, and Cool Trans mags, just to name a few. But you don’t have to go to Japan to check out this style. Sometimes you can even see them during Supreme drops racking up all the clothes before you get your piece.