Image via Supreme
On Monday morning, Supreme dropped its latest lookbook and preview for its Spring/Summer 2023 collection. And while streetwear enthusiasts and longtime fans of the brand were guaranteed to sift through all of the new images anyway, this collection came with a bit of extra hype behind it. It marked the first full collection under creative director Tremaine Emory.
If you were expecting a massive face-lift more akin to Emory’s Denim Tears design language or the appearance of his signature cotton wreath motif, you may have been a bit disappointed. That isn’t what we got. However, Emory did make his presence evident by working with close friends like Cynthia Lu of Cactus Plant Flea Market, a teaser video soundtracked by N.O.R.E.’s hit record “Superthug,” and innovative takes on staple items like an MA-1 jacket with denim sleeves. Overall, what was unveiled on Monday was what we have come to expect and love about Supreme: thoughtful references to pop culture that aren’t too obvious, inventive cut and sew, and a wide array of unconventional accessories. If you’ve ever dreamed of having a Supreme air hockey table or Dutch oven, you’re in luck.
Check out our takeaways from the Supreme Spring/Summer 2023 preview below.
Tremaine Emory Brought Some of His Friends Along
Many of us were curious as to how Tremaine Emory’s involvement would impact Supreme’s output. And while there was not a dramatic overhaul (not that we necessarily expected one), Emory did put his stamp on the Spring/Summer 2023 collection in a handful of ways. One of the most obvious came by tapping Cactus Plant Flea Market for the original graphics featured on the Tourist Varsity Jacket. Emory has worked with CPFM on multiple occasions in the past through his brand Denim Tears. Seeing CPFM work with Supreme in an official capacity is a fusion of two of the biggest brands in streetwear today. It’s something that feels impossible without someone like Emory in the building to recruit one of his peers. The result is a standout item of the season that will surely have plenty of people going after it on Thursday morning.
Someone on the Design Team Must Love Comics
We’ve seen Supreme reference lesser-known comic series in the past. Take Aeon Flux in Spring/Summer 2022 or Vampirella in Spring/Summer 2017, for example. So it certainly isn’t a surprise to see it do so again. But it is always interesting to see the series it decides to pull from next. In the case of Spring/Summer 2023, we saw a silk shirt, short-sleeved shirt, football top, and shorts pull panels from the pages of Ronin. The limited series was published from 1983 to 1984 by DC Comics and set in a dystopic version of New York City. The illustrations by Frank Miller don’t just look cool on clothing; they’re yet another subtle way that Supreme is able to nod to its home city.
Supreme Found New Ways to Honor Pop Culture Icons
Supreme’s photo T-shirts have become some of the most coveted pieces it has ever released. It has also long acted as a way for the brand to honor cultural icons like Raekwon, Dipset, Kermit the Frog, Morrissey, André 3000, and more. So it was nice to see them retool this formula slightly for Spring/Summer 2023. Rather than just release a photo T-shirt with an image of legendary Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain (although we did still get one of those), the brand also sublimated an image of the late grunge legend onto a chunky knit sweater. The elevated approach to one of Supreme’s hallmarks made for one of this season’s standout pieces. As seen with its floral printed garments and its collaborations with Daniel Johnston, Supreme has clearly been influenced by Cobain’s style long before this official linkup with his estate.
You Can Always Expect a Healthy Dose of Nostalgia
Supreme knows its audience. And one of the easiest ways to excite people about your latest designs is through nostalgia. It started tapping into the nostalgic part of our brains before we even got a look at the Spring/Summer 2023 clothing on Monday morning when a video clip of a Supreme-branded chopper flying through the sky was soundtracked by N.O.R.E.’s “Superthug.” Pieces like the Gore-Tex 700-Fill Down Parka made of leather nod to Marmot’s infamous “Biggie” coat, a piece of New York City’s deep fashion history. That nostalgia continued with the accessories, most notably a camouflage revival of Tamagotchi, a pocket-size digital pet popularized in the 2000s that we know at least some of you remember playing with at recess (no, it isn’t just the name of that fantastic Omar Apollo song). There’s even a 10-pack of crayons. And who didn’t love coloring as a kid, right?
There are also some great nods to Supreme history sprinkled throughout this collection. Longtime fans of the brand will surely be hyped about the patchwork jacquard trucker jacket and jeans that piece together various patterns from the Supreme archive, most notable the “fuck” all-over print from a popular 2013 jacket. Camp caps and viscose shirts have been covered in a print composed of old Supreme magazine covers from Japan. Day one supporters will appreciate the nod to eras they may consider the heyday of the brand. For younger shoppers, these types of designs make for a clever history lesson.
The Brand Knows How to Channel Sports of All Types, Not Just Skateboarding
Supreme may have started as a skate brand, but that’s far from the only sport we see the brand channel with its clothing. This season alone, we see various Umbro tracksuits to nod to soccer, football jerseys in classic mesh and more premium crochet varieties, satin baseball jerseys, and even basketball jerseys and shorts.
Supreme creating its own jerseys is to be expected by now, but we also got some more clever nods to sports in the form of a unique puffer jacket and T-shirt. Each is covered in a collage of jerseys. To the uninitiated, these pieces may just look like an odd mashup of numbers. But sports fans will surely appreciate the references to the throwback jerseys of pro teams like the Minnesota Timberwolves, Orlando Magic, Miami Heat, Golden State Warriors, and more. And it’s not as random as you may initially think. Throwback jerseys were a pivotal piece of the hip-hop uniform throughout the 2000s. These pieces act as a perfect way for Supreme to nod to the culture that it references so much.
New Collabs, Familiar Faces
Every Thursday for the next few weeks as Supreme rolls out its Spring/Summer 2023, we will be inundated with more new collaborations. But there are always a handful of collabs teased in the initial preview. For many of those projects, Supreme has decided to tap some familiar collaborators. We have new tracksuits with Umbro, sequin varsity jackets with Mitchell & Ness, and a colorful leather racing shirt made with the help of Vanson Leathers. We even saw Mark Gonzales pen some poems, which have been used to cover sweaters, chinos, and camp caps. All of these brands have been weaved into the identity of Supreme for years. Constants like these are what make the brand’s identity so strong and have longtime fans of the brand coming back for more.
The Accessories, the Damn Accessories
As per usual, Supreme’s laundry list of accessories was a highlight of its season preview. Tired of seeing everyone with the same IKEA pieces as you? How about a Supreme Kermit chair or credenza? Looking to upgrade your kitchenware? There’s a red Dutch oven with your name on it. If you’re a man or woman of the outdoors, make sure to invest in a Supreme bike tool, camp hammer, or fishing rod. The wide range of items means that anyone can find their own personal favorite. For me, it’s probably the air hockey table or the Tamagotchi. Just too much nostalgia. But I just can’t help but wonder, are they going to sell that helicopter? And if so, who the hell is going to drop the bread to own it?
No Graphics, No Problem.
Despite no drastic changes, the latest season from Supreme did ultimately feel a bit different. Usually peppered with various statement pieces like a giant fur coat with Supreme printed across the shoulder or a splashy gigantic “S” logo, Spring/Summer 2023 felt more subdued. There was still the use of fabrics like satin and exotic materials like snakeskin, but with less consistency. We still saw loud artwork featured on T-shirts and hoodies, but these instances seemed fewer when compared to past seasons. Instead, things are given a pop through vibrant color choices or intricate construction like frayed patchwork used on denim shorts or beaded appliqué on wool cardigans. Items feel a bit more timeless.
Perhaps it was at the suggestion of creative director Emory to give his debut collection his own personal stamp? An olive green satin MA-1 jacket with denim sleeves feels particularly like something Emory may release with Denim Tears. Perhaps it was Supreme’s way of shifting with the times? We are seeing plenty of brands lean toward more traditional menswear and tailoring right now. This could be the brand’s way of catering to those aesthetics without losing its identity. Maybe it’s the brand’s way of aging with a lot of its customers who fell in love with the brand in recent years as teenagers and are looking for some more mature wardrobe choices? Whatever the reason, the less in-your-face approach definitely feels intentional. Even this season’s Box Logo offering is a glance-and-you-might-miss-it tonal interpretation. Supreme has always made pieces that feel like they can live in your closet for years. This year, it just felt that much more intentional.