Image via Complex Original
Since its inception 20 years ago, Complex has done its best to constantly spotlight the brands that are next up. We may not be doing it in the pages of a print magazine anymore, but we’re still putting people on. ComplexCon, which launched in 2016, has always been a vehicle for introducing new brands that go on to be wildly successful.
Now household names, individuals like Market founder Mike Cherman and Joe Freshgoods were able to use the annual event to their advantage. They already had loyal followings of their own, but ComplexCon introduced their respective worlds to an even bigger audience. So, when Complex Style introduced its Brands to Watch space at ComplexCon in 2019, it helped formalize something that was already happening by highlighting some of our favorite emerging brands in a dedicated booth area. We even carried on the tradition for our virtual ComplexLand events that began in 2019 and have showcased brands the likes of Darryl Brown, Beth Birkett’s Bephies Beauty Supply, and Saeed Ferguson’s ALL CAPS STUDIO.
Past years have highlighted everything from home goods centric labels like Curves by Sean Brown to DIY creators like Juliet Johnstone who have turned classic workwear into wearable artwork by covering it in vibrant floral paintings. For many of our previous selections, participating in the Brands to Watch space was just the starting point for ComplexCon. Many of them return to the show floor, proving that they were well worth the cosign after all.
We decided to check in with some of the designers from past installments of our Brands to Watch series to see what they have been up to, why they wanted to come back to show at ComplexCon this year, and what the future holds for them. Take a look at each of them below.
Basketcase
Brands to Watch Year: 2019
Designer: Zach Kinninger
How do you feel you’ve grown as a brand since participating in Brands to Watch?
We’ve grown by just trying to be consistent, improving the product, and improving the community. The Brands to Watch moment was big for me back in 2019. One of my earliest experiences of really wanting to work in this space was being at ComplexCon and having Travis Scott pass by me and seeing this Vlone booth in 2017. I remember feeling like, “Oh man, I would just love to participate in this space.” Basketcase, originally, was a resume builder in college so that I could maybe get a job for a brand that would be at a ComplexCon. Brands to Watch was so helpful in our growth because it personally was a huge check mark. It was very empowering at a creative level for me. I was like, “Alright, this is a dream of mine to do this.” It was super encouraging.
Now, you have this very unique build out and you’re coming back here on your own terms.
Yeah, I think the change is cool. Starting with a 10 by 10 Brands to Watch booth, I was just feeling so happy to be a part of it. To consistently come back and grow our buildouts, the mindset almost goes from, “I hope I belong,” to “We need to do performance art because we have a duty.” ComplexCon is a shopping event, but it’s also like performance art. So for me, let’s sell clothes but let’s also give everyone performance art. I never really thought about it until you asked, but I think originally it was like, “I hope that we just don’t look shitty next to these other brands.” We were young. We didn’t have budget. ComplexCon is somewhere in between a museum, a trade show, and a shopping experience. So, we’re going to fill in that space.
How do you feel that showing at ComplexCon has helped the brand with exposure?
The experience has varied year to year in some sense. One year, you do 100 sales. Then, it grows to 200 sales a year. It’s grown as the brand has grown. But I think the cooler thing about ComplexCon has been being able to meet other brand owners that you’ve gone back and forth with on DMs. I’m not really a big networker. I like my own space. As a creative person, I’m easily affected by other creative shit going on. So, ComplexCon is a cool moment. I don’t often meet a lot of other brand owners, not because I don’t like them, but just because I like to try to protect my own space. ComplexCon is a moment to explore and say hello and shake hands. Personally, that’s been the most beneficial part.
What’s been the proudest moment for you with the brand thus far?
Kanye posted all of our stuff, which was super cool for me. He’s a hero in a creative sense. It’s sad to see what’s happening right now, but I would be lying if I said that wasn’t a “holy shit” moment for me.
I’m also proud to build a team and do the real small business thing. That’s hard and it’s deeper than clothes. It’s giving people real jobs. The pop-ups too. We do a pop-up almost every six weeks in cities all over the US and consistently have like 1,000 people coming out just to shop and hang out. That feels realer than clothes sometimes. I’m very proud of that.
What’s the next milestone you want to hit with your brand?
Doing a major sneaker would be really special. I think a lot of people get into sneakers first and then kind of develop their tastes. So, getting to do a shoe with any of the majors, whether it was Adidas, Nike, or New Balance, would be special for sure. On a personal level, I want to expand into more mediums. I get excited thinking about juxtaposing the brand creatively with a physical product, like if we could do the nicest chair or even like a pack of gum that feels like it fits with these beat up jeans and cool hoodies that we’re selling. I think that’s exciting creatively.
Juliet Johnstone
Brands to Watch Year: 2021
Designer: Juliet Johnstone
How do you feel that your brand has grown since you participated in Brands to Watch?
We’ve expanded a lot of our product categories. We make everything in LA. We introduced a lot of new women’s styles: swimwear, fleece, mesh, lots of new stuff. I’m happy to be back and be able to kind of simplify my booth and just paint. This year, we decided to take our booth in a different direction, which I feel like is a form of growth too. Last year, we did so much different one-of-one products and we just scaled back this year. We launched one item. It’s our new core collection, which is just our classic baby tees all made in LA, but with the logo embroidery. So many people asked to buy them blank and I don’t sell blanks. [Laughs.] It’s a new step for us. We’re trying to really hone in on our cut and sew and our silhouettes and launch this core collection, which is exciting.
What made you excited to come back and show at ComplexCon again?
It’s really fun to just see everybody. It’s so fun to be part of this community. This is the only time I actually get to link with all these people I know besides Fashion Week. So, it’s really fun. It’s just a good opportunity to put together a little world in a small box and see what you can do with it. That’s what I like about it. I love walking around and being able to see what other people have done. Sometimes working in the 10 by 10 limitations is hard, but also really fun. What can we come up with? It’s just a great way to meet new customers and tap into the community.
Do you feel like your brand has been introduced to people that may not have experienced your brand otherwise?
It’s an interesting thing for us because our pants are unisex, but most of our clothes are women’s. ComplexCon is definitely more male dominant I would say. I don’t think my customers are necessarily here. But it’s really fun to see. It’s a lot of guys coming up and being like, “Oh, my girlfriend’s making me come get her a baby tee.” [Laughs.] I think it’s been really cool to meet new people. There’s so many brands and designers, especially last year with Brands to Watch, I became really good friends with Keith from Advisry. He’s awesome. So, I feel really lucky to have met a lot of cool people who are friends and also that I look up to so much. But yeah, I have gained customers. I think there’s a lot of people who walk by and they’re like, “What are you guys doing?” Because we’re just in there painting.
What is the next milestone for the brand you want to achieve?
I’m just taking it day by day. [Laughs.] I feel really lucky that people let me just pull up to their events and paint like this. I would love to just keep doing more of this kind of thing. This is what I love. At the core, before being a designer, I’m a painter. That’s how I started my brand and that’s what I do. So, I just would love to keep doing painting installations and things like this. I’m so grateful for the opportunity. I want to paint a bunch of stuff. I recently painted a couch. I want to paint a car. I want to paint a plane. I want to paint everything.
Curves by Sean Brown
Brands to Watch Year: 2021
Designer: Sean Brown
How has your brand improved since participating in Brands to Watch?
The product line has extended. Our reach has extended. We got into more places, like more wholesale around the world. We just have been growing. To be honest with you, it’s hard to believe that ComplexCon Brands to Watch was just one year ago.
What about that experience made you eager to participate in ComplexCon again?
I just hold Complex in such high regard with the magazine and knowing the history of Marc Ecko’s Complex, the Japanese-influenced double-sided prints. But also Paulo and Verdy being behind the creative direction this year, I just felt like that was adding another layer to what was happening last year. We just wanted to be a part of it.
Do you feel like showing here has introduced your brand to new customers?
For sure, even down to having a bigger space. The setup is more like museum style. You can touch, see, and feel the brand. Last year, we did a lot of QR codes. It was more virtual. We were present, but everything about the brand’s world was still online. Now, you can kind of step into the catalog almost.
Is this booth a small piece of how you would imagine a Curves brick and mortar space to be?
No, I wouldn’t do a standalone retail store like this, but I really like the concept of temporary stores. I started in pop-ups, so I love things that are constantly changing. I feel like our gallery back home [in Toronto] is like that too. I’ll get furniture and then get sick of it and want to search for new furniture.
A lot of people know your brand for the CD rugs. But as your brand grows, what’s beyond that?
Collections, doing full bodies of work. I feel like the CD rug was a hit song on the radio and I don’t ever want to rest on that. The people decide what our next big item is, but I think for us now we’re big on full collections like the inflatable furniture collection and the archway collection. We’re making full bodies of things where now people know under Curves there’s an array of products to choose from. That’s where my head is at now. And some things will become cult favorites. Some things will be more popular to some people. Some things won’t.
What is the next milestone you want to hit with the brand? Are there any upcoming projects you can talk about?
Partnerships. More collaborations. More teaming up with people who specialize in a thing and building out product with them. I think that’s going to be next for us going forward. We have things that we do really well, but I think there’s other brands and artists who do things at such a high level that we would like to partner with them and execute some ideas.
Tombogo
Brands to Watch Year: 2021
Designer: Tommy Bogo
How do you feel like your brand has grown from when you participated in Brands to Watch to now?
Cohesiveness has been that big piece. We’ve just learned a lot about how to actually produce things with consistency so that everything feels cohesive, not just a one off. Also really just learning the game. I think it’s been a big learn-by-doing process. From then to now, I feel way more educated and well versed. I remember last year I did ComplexCon for the first time and we were sweating both days making sure everything was here. This time, we had a little more experience under our belt. It was more of a breeze. And now people have more of an understanding of what the brand is. The storytelling has been more clear. It’s easier to let people know without having to shove it in their face.
What about this atmosphere made you want to show here again?
I really love the community aspect. It’s a demographic that you don’t really see anywhere except on the internet. There’s a huge community on Instagram and TikTok for streetwear, emerging brands, fashion, and cool stuff in general. But, especially in LA, I feel like there’s not a cohesive place that is like a melting pot for that right now. I feel like ComplexCon definitely is that.
Do you feel like showing here has introduced people to your brand that may not have found you otherwise?
Yeah, 100 percent, whether it’s someone big that stops by or just a new face. I think that’s a huge part of it. I can only reach so far with X amount of followers, so it’s nice to just have this. If you’re going to ComplexCon, you’re going to walk around the whole thing and see it regardless. Whether they’re stopping by and copping something or just looking at the logo, that says a lot. The exposure is great.
What’s the next milestone you want to hit with the brand?
We’re definitely looking at participating in Paris Fashion Week more. Last season was my first time going and I was like, “Wow, I should have gone a long time ago.” It was so off my radar, but now I see it’s where all the major players are at and doing their thing. So, if I want to get to that level, I have to perform out there as well and not just be in the States. We have to take it international and be worldwide with it.
And then really just solidifying things internally, continuing with the storytelling, and finding that science in creating defining moments.
Advisry
Brands to Watch Year: 2021
Designer: Keith Herron
Can you talk about how the approach to your booth has changed since you have participated in Brands to Watch?
I wouldn’t say there was much difference in terms of actually showing here, but I’m very proud of the growth and that we actually got the opportunity to be here through Paulo [Calle] and Verdy. So, big ups to them.
Aside from that, what about ComplexCon made you excited to show again?
Yeah. I feel like the consumer here is a little bit different than our typical consumer. So, when I came here last year, I was very surprised to see the impact that it had on my brand in terms of visibility. Also just being able to meet a bunch of other creators and awesome people, the energy around here is great. I’m happy to be here for sure.
Can you just talk about the growth you’ve experienced with your brand this past year?
Yeah, I mean it’s crazy. I didn’t know that I would be doing this much a year ago. I didn’t realize that we would be doing two runway shows and all the other things that we did this year. The growth has been fun. We’re just moving as it goes. If I get an idea, I try to actualize it. That’s what that process has been like and it’s come at a consistent rate. One opportunity leads to another. I got to thank Complex because Complex was actually the first imprint to give me a solo interview. That opened up the door for many other conversations, so I appreciate it. Some people will come up to me because they have seen the Complex article. More recently, us being in Vogue gave us a lot more opportunities as well. It all kind of just builds on itself.
Do you feel that ComplexCon has helped bring in new fans to the brand?
Most definitely. Being confined to this 10 by 10 box, it’s a fun way to bring in people to inhabit your world as a designer. People get the real vision and bigger picture of the brand when we’re able to give them these zines. ComplexCon has really helped us tell that story to this audience.
What is the next milestone for the brand?
I’m hoping to launch my shoe silhouettes next year. That’s my big goal for the year. Also expect some new accessories and doing more collections, of course.