Image via Ralph Lauren
When Ralph Lauren released its first Polo Shirt in 1972, the Polo label was only five years old and he was looking to release a garment that would distinguish itself in a crowded market. Instead of just making a plain polyester polo shirt for sport, Lauren decided to release his in an array of different colors. He crafted it out of lightweight cotton so that its colors would gracefully age over time. He ensured that his shirt’s rib-knit collar would sit up high on the neck and be stiff enough to pop it up for style or shade the back of their neck. Even the shirt’s placket, with its two distinctive cross-stitched buttons, was meticulously designed to always lay perfectly flat on the wearer. Lastly, Lauren embroidered a small Polo pony logo to not just make his shirt fashionable but also call back to the very sport his label was named after. Lauren has built a brand that’s defined American fashion for the past 50 years, and his Polo Shirt has remained one of his most iconic creations.
To properly celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Polo Shirt, Ralph Lauren released a 496-page coffee table book with Rizzoli earlier this year titled Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt. For Lauren’s son David Lauren, creating a book was the perfect way to celebrate the Polo Shirt’s 50th anniversary.
“The Polo Shirt has always been an important part of Ralph Lauren’s DNA, and maintaining its popularity and timelessness for 50 years is an impressive feat that we are deeply proud of,” says David, who is also Ralph Lauren’s Chief Brand and Innovation Officer. “It only felt natural to chronicle the history of how the shirt has evolved over the years and look at it through the eyes of those who know it best—the celebrities, notables and real people who have brought it along with them throughout every stage of their life”.
Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt delivers a broad overview on the Polo Shirt’s impact not just on fashion but pop culture at large. The book includes quotes from celebs like Sean “Diddy” Combs, Kanye West, and Jerry Seinfeld describing what wearing Lauren’s Polo Shirt meant to them. It features an extensive photo archive of the most popular Polo Shirts the label’s released over the last 50 years, and breaks down the unique logos, themes, and prints that make them highly sought after by collectors today. Speaking about collectors, the Lo Lifes, Thirstin Howl III, and other figures familiar to any “Lo Head’’ are featured prominently throughout the book. Simply put, the book captures pretty much everything you’ll ever need to know about one of Ralph Lauren’s staples.
We got the opportunity to chat with David about the making of the book, the significance of Polo’s 1992 Stadium collection, the reason why Ralph Lauren’s Polo Bear embroideries have rarely changed, and more.
Why did it feel right to chronicle the 50-year history of the Polo Shirt through a book? Why was this the best vehicle to tell the story of one of Ralph Lauren’s most iconic items?
For over 50 years now, Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt is a fashion icon that has transcended trends and cultures. We wanted to celebrate and recognize the milestone of our most iconic product because what began as a simple cotton shirt with an embroidered polo player on it, has really grown and evolved into something bigger. As Ken Burns writes in the book’s foreword, “It’s never, of course, about the thing itself; it’s always the metamorphosis of the materials that have gone into making it.”
There’s a good reason why Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt has become the most popular iteration of a classic piece of menswear. I love the “Anatomy” section of the book, which meticulously breaks down every element of Lauren’s design. What do you think was the most important attribute that distinguishes Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt in a league of its own?
The Pony of course! It’s an iconic symbol that resonates across the globe. We also now include QR codes in all labels on our clothes that help to authenticate the product because we want our consumers to trust they are purchasing what they think they are.
Personally, what’s your favorite Polo Shirt fit and why?
I am a fan of the Classic fit–it’s timeless and can be dressed up or dressed down for any and all occasions.
The Polo Bear embroidery spread is one of my favorite pages in the book. Obviously, these bears were inspired by the work of Ralph Lauren artists such as Dick Tahsin. But while the look of Polo Bear illustrations and knits have evolved over the years, the Polo Bear embroidery seen on Polo shirts has remained relatively consistent over time. I’m curious to know why that is?
We like to stick with our classic Polo Bear emblem. Although we’ve worked with different artists through the years to interpret our Polo Bear, we think it’s important to stay consistent with what we place on our shirts.
How did you go about putting together this expansive archive of shirts for the “Polo Lifestyles” section of the book? I assume there were hundreds of different options that could have been picked over the label’s 50-year history.
For over 50 years, Ralph Lauren has represented timeless and authentic style. The Polo Shirt has been a canvas for the brand’s expression to create one of the most fashionable icons that exists, and the versions over the years have redefined the way we look at the shirt and American sportswear around the world.
Ralph has used the Polo Shirt to tell stories himself, and it’s been such a treat to hear the many stories of people who have worn it in their own lives, and have actually said their Polos get even better with age. That’s one of the reasons why we wanted to source some of our most unique shirts from the past few decades and not only showcase them in these pages, but also make them available for resale. You can show off your own vintage Polo look by finally having a chance to go back in time and buy the piece you always had your eye on.
I love the categories—Equestrian, Military, Destination, Nautical, Sport, Outdoor, University, and Prints—that break up this archive section of the book. Do you feel those eight categories cohesively cover the entire spectrum of the Polo Shirt or were there other categories you had in mind that didn’t make the cut?
Although it’s difficult to place every Polo Shirt that has ever been created into a specific category, we felt these eight categories gave a good overview of the heritage and evolution of the shirt.
I love the subsections within the Sports category specifically. I never knew Ralph Lauren designed uniforms for the New York Cosmos soccer team in the late ‘70s. And The Wimbledon Tennis Polo shirts released annually are newer Polo items loved by many hardcore fans of the brand. Why did it feel important to highlight the 1992 Stadium collection in this section of the book?
The 1992 Stadium Collection still inspires many of our Polo Sport capsules and initiatives today–it’s a classic product line that is popular with collectors and new customers alike. We have reissued it over the years as limited edition drops–each time reimagining it for fans in new and creative ways, including even developing versions of it for the metaverse. The Stadium Collection is a cult classic that is quickly becoming beloved by the next generation and we will continue to explore exciting ways to bring it to market.
The Hall of Fame section is just spectacular. It’s mind boggling to really see how ubiquitous this item has become. A shirt worn by both prime ministers and rappers like Andre 3000. How did you go about curating the content for this section? Especially the pull quotes from the likes of Jerry Seinfeld and Pharrell?
This section truly shows the breadth of the impact the Polo Shirt has had on culture over the years. I think I speak for my family and I when I say that it’s been an honor to see the likes of Jerry Seinfeld, Pharrell, Oprah, Muhammad Ali, and even US presidents wearing the iconic Polo Shirt. It was fun to walk down memory lane as this chapter was put together.
Of course, the most touching section of this book is the final section titled “Shirt Stories.” It’s amazing to see how real these images feel but also how diverse this selection was. While it’s really captivating to read what this shirt meant to a ‘70s subway graffiti writer like KEL1ST or a contemporary artist like Kehinde Wiley, I truly loved the everyman perspective here. How did you compile this massive chapter filled with just real stories?
So many different people wear the Polo Shirt throughout their everyday life, from rappers to royalty to ordinary people like you and I. Although each shirt has its own unique story, I think people feel as though they’re a part of something bigger; a chance for self-expression and a way to partake in their version of the American dream. We reached out to fans and shoppers that we have interacted with throughout the years and invited them to share their personal stories on how they wear the Polo Shirt in their everyday life. We felt it was important to highlight real people across the world and various industries to showcase how the Polo has become a quintessential item in many people’s closets—no matter who they are or where they come from.
What did you learn about the impact of Ralph Lauren by creating this book?
I think the wide and diverse scope of who has worn Ralph Lauren’s Polo Shirt—across nations and walks of life, from celebrities to politicians to you and me—the Polo Shirt carries so many stories and really has been such a conduit of self-expression over the years.
We are always looking to evolve and expand upon the Polo Shirt in fun and exciting ways—whether that is using fine beading or sequins or crafting an elevated silk or cashmere style—while still maintaining the classic look and feel everyone loves. We have found so many ways to make the Polo Shirt fashionable and forward-thinking and will continue to explore new creative ideas—we want it to be an item you can go to for day or night, at home or at a gala, and are consistently thinking outside of the box on how to make it fit into your life in different ways.