The Best Brands of 2021

The pandemic is still here and supply chain issues have heavily impacted the apparel industry, but brands are still managing to present exciting product and engaging narratives. There are the expected brands that have become mainstays like Stussy, Supreme, and Louis Vuitton that continue to draw in consumers with its core pieces and collaborations. And there are newer brands like 18 East, Denim Tears, and Joe Freshgoods that have carved out a space for themselves with their output that elicits hype, but isn’t grounded in it.

It’s expected to push out collaboration after collaboration, but it’s harder to do it in a discerning way that’s still impactful. With that in mind, these are Complex’s picks for the best brands of 2021.

Telfar

Standout Moments: Launching Telfar TV, dressing the Liberian team at the Olympics, continuing its partnership with Ugg and Moose Knuckles collaboration, and releasing the Telfar duffel bags.

Telfar has become more popular, but it hasn’t lost its essence, which is rooted in community and inclusivity. Last year the bag was on the “Oprah’s Favorite Things” holiday list. Some fans expressed irritation over the bag becoming an even hotter item, but this is what designer Telfar Clemens always wanted: to sell items that aren’t just for you, but everybody. The year started off with Clemens landing the cover of Time Magazine’s The Next 100 Most Influential People. Following that, fans noticed a Guess bag that mimicked Telfar’s signature shopping bag. We see mass brands copy luxury and emerging brands every day, but it’s not so often that anything is done about it. But because of Telfar’s loyal fan base who made a lot of noise on social media platforms, Guess removed the bag from its assortment and stopped selling it. Clemens and Babak Radboy, his business partner and creative director, noticed the bag a month or so before Twitter users did, but didn’t take any action because they knew the bag wasn’t a threat to what they’ve created. They were right. “It’s a great, happy ending,” Radboy told The New York Times.

More awareness around the shopping bag, which he sells directly to consumers from his website, has also meant resellers have tried to get into the mix. But the brand has attempted to remedy that problem with its Secure the Bag program, which they did for the second time earlier this year, that gives shoppers a day to pre-order whatever bag they want and Telfar TV, a platform that’s available on Roku or Apple TV that allows viewers to purchase its bags via QR codes, which randomly pop up on-screen in the midst of various content. He’s also released new colors like Azalea (fuchsia), Painter’s Tape (cobalt blue), and Eggplant (deep purple), which he debuted on The Wendy Williams Show, and a new duffel silhouette, which he launched during New York Fashion Week. Telar continues to insert itself into pop culture organically via its partnership with Bravo’s The Real Housewives of Potomac and its new color launch on HBO’s Insecure. But the brand’s most meaningful partnership to date is designing unisex uniforms for the Liberian Olympic team (Clemens is from Liberia).

Telfar is best known for its signature shopping bag, but the company also makes strong unisex apparel, which we saw with its Converse collaboration, and on Rihanna, who wore a Telfar velour track jacket over a white bra top and mini skirt. Telfar also revisited his beloved White Castle collaboration, which made an even larger impact this year since he was hired to design and revamp all the uniforms for the chain’s 10,000 restaurant employees. It’s nice to see a brand’s fan base grow organically without relying on inauthentic cheat codes, and Telfar has done just that.—Aria Hughes

Balenciaga

Standout Moments: Relaunching couture; dressing/creative directing Kanye West’s DONDA listening parties; producing The Simpsons episode; collaborating with Gucci on “The Hacker Project” collection; and making clothes for Fortnite.

Demna Gvasalia joined Balenciaga as creative director in 2015 following stints at Maison Martin Margiela, Louis Vuitton, and his own line Vetements, which helped usher in streetwear as luxury fashion. Since joining Balenciaga he’s captured everyone’s attention with interesting product—think the clunky Triple S sneaker—thought provoking fashion shows and big celebrity cosigns, but this past year he seemed to be firing on all cylinders. Gvasalia understands that leading a fashion brand in 2021 isn’t just about making clothes. It’s about entertaining the consumer, inserting the brand into pop culture, and having something to say.

Gvasalia started the year by partnering with Gucci’s creative director Alessandro Michele (both Balenciaga and Gucci are owned by Kering) on the The Hacker Project, a capsule collection that melded together signature silhouettes and logos from both houses. Gvasalia then announced that he would be reviving Balenciaga’s couture collection, which debuted in July. Gvasalia’s take on couture was rooted in Cristobal Balenciaga’s heritage, but also featured his own design philosophies. Gvassalia presented denim trousers, hoodies, parkas, and a T-shirt through a couture lens. He also deepened his working relationship with Kanye West, who spent most of the year wearing a Balenciaga leather jacket of some sort with black Balenciaga Croc boots. Gvasalia creative directed his “DONDA” listening events in Atlanta and Chicago, and that spilled over into dressing Kim Kardashian, who has consistently worn the brand throughout the year and surprised everyone at the MET gala with a black T-shirt gown and face covering. And Justin Beiber starred in its Fall 2021 campaign.

The brand has been omnipresent, but in a way that makes sense. Gvasalia is good at inserting the brand in various arenas without being predictable. His Spring 2022 show in Paris for example recreated a movie premiere event with show attendees walking a red carpet before filing into a Paris theater to watch video of celebrities and models including Offset, Cardi B, Lewis Hamilton, and Naomi Campbell also walk the red carpet wearing looks from the collection. The show was followed by an actual premiere of a Balenciaga x The Simpsons episode that brought the residents of Springfield to Paris to walk in a Balenciaga fashion show. And then he got more future leaning by providing digital fashion drops for Fortnite. Gvasalia continues to surprise with his product and its marketing.—Aria Hughes

Bottega Veneta

Standout Moments: Showing collection in Detroit, the release of Bottega Veneta’s digital magazine and Lil Yachty wearing lime green puddle boots in the music video for the “No More Beatboxing Freestyle.”

In November 2021, Bottega Veneta announced that its creative director Daniel Lee, a 35-year-old British designer who previously held positions at Balenciaga, Maison Margiela, and worked under Phoebe Philo at Celine as director of ready-to-wear, was exiting the brand. Lee injected new energy into Bottega that resonated with a diverse audience that ranged from actors like Daniel Kaluuya, who wore a Bottega Veneta suit to accept his Best Supporting Actor award at the 2021 Oscars, to Lil Yachty, who’s been sporting the lime green puddle boots. His successor is Matthieu Blazy, who worked under him as the label’s ready-to-wear design director .

While his exit was surprising news, it didn’t take away from the stellar year Bottega had, and a lot of that had to do with Lee’s investment in making good product and storytelling. The house has long been known for its intrecciato weave technique, and Lee amped that up for a new customer with accessories like the Cassette bag and the Lido mules. But men also embraced the new Bottega look, sporting the brand’s chunky Puddle and Tire boots. Lee understood that it takes more than good products to sell clothes these days, which is why it made sense when the brand deleted its Twitter and Instagram accounts at the top of the year. No one knew exactly what happened, but in March when it released a digital magazine, Issued by Bottega, Lee told The Guardian, “Social media represents the homogenization of culture. Everyone sees the same stream of content. A huge amount of thought goes into what I do, and social media oversimplifies it.”

The magazine showed the breadth of Bottega’s customer, featuring music icon Missy Elliott, Biba fashion designer Barbara Hulanicki, and parkour athletes. And he tapped different artists (Masayoshi Matsumoto and Walter Pfeiffer for example) to interpret the brand in their own vision. Lee showed that yes, he’s selling luxury items, but these are items that can be lived in and worn by different types of people. This is also reflected in his latest campaign, which features models along with music artists Skepta, Little Simz, and film director Melina Matsoukas, and the second edition of his magazine that featured Travis Scott. We got an ever deeper sense of Lee’s aptitude for storytelling when he staged a show and press trip in Detroit this past October. Lee understands what it means to be a relevant luxury brand in 2021 and we look forward to watching how he develops the brand and its storytelling.—Aria Hughes

Aimé Leon Dore

Standout Moments: Releasing its second collaboration with Porsche complete with a bespoke vintage 911SC, debuting the second installment of it “International Friendship Through Basketball” campaign with New Balance centered around the 550 sneaker

Aimé Leon Dore founder Teddy Santis has created a world for the brand’s customers—a perfect balance between streetwear and menswear. While many of ALD’s loyal supporters skew young, the clothes are ageless. Anyone can look good in them. And Santis proves this with his campaigns like the World’s Borough lookbook that features creatives of various ages, races, genders, and cultures dressed in the brand’s clothing. Action Bronson, Nas, DJ Premier, Charles Oakley, Rachel Johnson, Sophia Chang, Victor Cruz, and Greg Yuna are just a handful of the names, and the list goes on.

The brand knows what it does well and it continues to fine-tune its output with each passing season. The result has been a mix of must-have patchwork cardigans that sell out in minutes, penny loafers in an array of materials and colors, painter’s pants, Casentino wool overshirts, and even a growing array of small leather goods if you are someone who wants their entire wardrobe emblazoned with the ALD’s minimal logos. Need something more casual? There is always a graphic T-shirt, pair of nylon shorts, sweatsuit, or New Era fitted to satisfy that need, too. The collaborations continue to please, too, the most paramount being an ongoing New Balance partnership. (Santis was even named the new creative director of NB’s Made in USA business starting in 2022). The brand’s clean 550s have become part of the Lower East Side’s uniform. A more recent duo of 993s, highlighted by a beef and broccoli-inspired colorway, also sold through with ease upon release last month. Outside of footwear, the brand also launched a sequel to its previous work with Porsche this past May complete with another fully bespoke vintage 911SC that was put on display outside of ALD’s Mulberry Street flagship. Continued work with heritage brands like Woolrich guarantee a level of craftsmanship with all of ALD’s products, albeit with a higher price tag attached. Even with some of the higher price points acting as a point of contention with the brand for some, it doesn’t seem to be slowing down Santis’ growing empire too much.

Most importantly, ALD is cultivating a community. Not everyone has the ability to experience Aimé Leon Dore’s flagship on Mulberry Street in Manhattan’s Nolita neighborhood firsthand, but it represents this idea in the best way. On any given weekend, you will see the same amount of people lining up to cop a $200 hoodie as a $4 espresso from its cafe. It’s all part of the experience, an experience we’re certain Santis is going to keep improving on in the future. You may have noticed a handful of brands recently that seem to be modeling their presentation after ALD’s campaigns. There’s a reason for that. Aime Leon Dore is just doing things that well right now.—Mike DeStefano

Joe Freshgoods

Standout Moments: Renovating a 7-Eleven in Chicago, the entire Joe Freshgoods for 7-Eleven collection (especially the striped sweatpants), getting his own bobblehead with his hometown Chicago White Sox

Joe Freshgoods continues to win on his own terms. While most streetwear brands seem to be rolling out new collabs or collections weekly, the Chicago native is much more calculated with how he decides to make his next big splash. And it keeps paying off for him. He entered 2021 coming off of arguably his biggest year to date, at least on a mainstream level, thanks in large part to a stellar New Balance 992 collaboration that debuted during 2020 NBA All-Star Weekend in his home city. The inaugural New Balance project was so good that Joe Freshgoods was given a sequel––the brown, blue, and green “Outside Clothes” 990v3 that launched this past August alongside a capsule of matching apparel highlighted by a brown vacation shirt with “They Wasn’t There” chain stitched on the back. The accompanying campaign centered around the cult classic status of the 990s in Black communities in the DMV.

His first big project of 2021 came back in May, a two-part drop with 7-Eleven inspired by his visits to the convenience store throughout his childhood. Not only did he release a line of apparel complete with graphic T-shirts, socks, and yes, more great track pants, he was also allowed to fully overhaul a 7-Eleven location in Chicago with special window dressing, branding, floor stickers, and baskets. The project showed the importance of storytelling, an area that he truly excels in, and authenticity when it comes to brands collaborating with major IPs that can go beyond just utilizing a well-known logo or mascot from its archive. Fast forward to September, he released a landmark project with his hometown Chicago White Sox consisting of special edition New Era fitteds, Mitchell & Ness hoodies, and even his very own bobblehead that was given away at Guaranteed Rate Field to fans.

Joe Freshgoods’ year wasn’t only about getting new product to market, though. He has used his partnerships to continue to aid his local community and spotlight smaller creators. He hosted the “Featuring Us” gallery in the West Side of Chicago with the help of 1800 Tequila. Rather than releasing new product at ComplexCon in November, he partnered with Instagram to host a space dedicated to telling the story of his come-up and hosting panels with some of his close friends like Anwar Carrots.

In a world that feels obsessed with excess, Joe Freshgoods chooses to focus on the quality of his output and not the quantity of it. It makes everything he does feel that much more special. As his brand keeps growing, we cannot wait to see what he cooks up next.—Mike DeStefano

Arc'teryx

Standout Moments: Arc’teryx hiring Nicole McLaughlin as their first-ever design ambassador and releasing a luxurious collaboration with Jil Sander.

One could say that Arc’teryx never had a leg up as an heritage outdoor clothing brand. While popular outdoor labels like The North Face or Patagonia have been in business for nearly half a century, Arc’teryx has only been in the game for less than 25 years. Yet, it has established itself to become a leader within the outdoor clothing space through innovative designs and a commitment to producing some of the best gear on the market today. But when the late-Virgil Abloh wore an Alpha SV to Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway show last year—and made a hybrid dress out of it for his Off-White show that same season—the hype for the brand amongst a streetwear crowd seemingly went into overdrive. But what makes Arc’teryx such an alluring brand beyond its iconic WaterTight zippers and 3-layer Gore-Tex Pro hardshells is how they have addressed a new audience who may be more interested in their Palace collaboration last December rather than the brand’s sponsorship of snowboarder Elena Hight this year.

In 2021, we saw Arc’teryx introduce System_A, a new line of casual but also mountain-ready styles designed by Creative Director Taka Kasuga. The standout piece within the collection was the “Dume” jacket, which was first unveiled when the Canadian rapper Killy introduced System_A, on Instagram. The Gore-Tex jacket boasted a boxier fit and included military-style velcro patches on the sleeves for customization. The line also included the re-release of revered products like the Quiver sling bag alongside T-shirts boasting heat-sealed seams with an oversized dead bird logo on the back. Kasuga, who worked for Junya Watanabe of Comme des Garcons in the early 2000s before arriving at Arc’teryx, designed a collection that felt like the perfect middle-ground for hardcore outdoor enthusiasts who have long adored the brand and newcomers who may have just heard about it last year. Striking that middle ground is what makes something like Arc’teryx’s collaboration with Jil Sander one of this year’s standout collaborations. Sure, it may be impractical for the average powder snow enthusiast to wear a $1,710 Jil Sander x Arc‘teryx Gore-Tex ski jacket outfitted with Recco and a lamb leather stormhood. But it’s also hard to deny that whoever does, will look damn good wearing it no matter what situation they’re in. Arc’teryx can embrace that they make stylish jackets without compromising the quality or integrity of its gear.

And that became clear when we witnessed Arc’teryx hire Nicole McLaughlin to become their first-ever design ambassador. While Arc’teryx product lines like Veliance have been popular with a fashion forward crowd for over a decade, the brand’s cosign of McLaughlin did not just feel organic but perfectly of the moment. While surging interest in outdoor labels has drawn streetwear enthusiasts to Instagram accounts like McLaughlin’s, it has also naturally led us to think more about the environmental impact of our purchases. By sponsoring an independent upcycling designer like McLaughlin, it opens doors at the brand internally to have much-needed conversations about circularity; or the possibilities for the life-cycle of our garments to back into the supply chain rather than just end at a landfill. Arc’teryx has clearly doubled down on that commitment with the launch of ReBird, a sustainability platform that lets customers explore the brand’s latest initiatives in sustainability while also introducing new products made from reclaimed excess raw materials. Arc’teryx, and many other outdoor brands, still have a long way to go when it comes to making larger commitments to sustainability. But what makes the Canadian outdoor label stand out in 2021 is that while it’s enjoying its moment in the limelight from celebrity co-signs by the likes of Amine and Lil Yachty, the brand is still keeping a bird’s eye view on the future of the outdoors.—Lei Takanashi

Awake NY

Standout Moments: Releasing a collaboration with Crocs, featuring Westside Gunn in the lookbook for its Vans collab, and its continued work with Asics.

Season after season, Angelo Baque’s Awake NY continues to improve. While the brand has been around for almost a decade, it was founded in 2012, arguably its strongest year to date was 2021. What Awake does, channel various aspects of New York’s diverse subcultures throughout its presentation and product, isn’t necessarily an original approach in streetwear. The brand Baque previously worked for as creative director until 2016, Supreme, has been taking a similar approach for over 25 years, for instance. But that doesn’t mean a brand should not be awarded for doing it well. And that is what Awake has been able to accomplish through a unique lens, thanks in part to Baque’s Latinx heritage. The Queens native proudly highlights his roots in his campaigns and graphics.

“Growing up, I didn’t really have a representation that I could fully relate to, but now I have the opportunity to fill that void for the next generation,” Baque told Complex back in 2020.

Awake’s collaborations have been where it has really shined. In July, it released a capsule with New Era inspired by the Subway Series between the New York Yankees and Mets. The campaign featured iconic New Yorkers from Styles P to Futura repping their borough’s team. A few months later, the brand tapped Griselda’s Westside Gunn to model its first project with Vans and standout pieces from its Fall/Winter 2021 collection A collaboration with Crocs that released just last month focused on the importance of family. Two pairs of clogs were covered in hearts to match sweatsuits covered in airbrush-inspired graphics. Fittingly, a handful of families, including his own, modeled for the campaign. And the inline offerings have continued to impress too. Cut and sew items like houndstooth wool overcoats, harrington jackets covered in intricate embroidery, and ombre mohair cardigans were among some of the best items that offer an elevated approach if you aren’t someone trying to fill their closet with anymore hoodies or graphic T-shirts. Those are still here though. Some of the better examples featured original artwork by Shirt King Phade, another great nod to the historic subcultures of New York. Streetwear means different things to different people in 2021. But for those looking for a new brand still doing something that feels like classic streetwear, Awake definitely fills that void. And it does so exceptionally. —Mike DeStefano

18 East

Standout Moments: The release of Helly Hooded Jackets and their “Strictly Roots” collection.

Let’s be honest here. It’s hard to distinguish your own clothing label in the Lower East Side these days. But while crowds have swarmed around Mulberry Street to hit stores like Noah or Aime Leon Dore, and hypebeasts are still queuing up to shop from Supreme on Bowery, 18 East has quietly flourished inside an old massage parlor on Elizabeth Street. Created in 2018 by Antonio Ciongoli, a designer who launched the revered Neapolitan menswear label Eidos in the early-2010s and previously designed for Ralph Lauren’s Rugby line, 18 East is likely the best “IYKYK” New York brand out right now. Inspired by the founder’s love for both ‘90s skateboard brands and vintage outerwear, 18 East has struck the perfect balance for those looking for technically-inclined clothing that maintains a sophisticated streetwear edge.

Just look at the brand’s popular Gorecki Cargos, a pair of handloom double weave jacquard cotton pants made in India that has easily become one of the brand’s most sought after items. The pants were named after the Philly pro skater Jimmy Gorecki and inspired by the cargo pants worn by skaters in Philadelphia’s famous Love Park—the brand has officially collaborated with Gorecki’s Standard Issue label several times as well. Although they could be priced higher, the pants retail for only $155—and like nearly all the brand’s garments—are produced in small runs by artisanal manufacturers in India. Without employing any marketing gimmicks, 18 East’s products sell-out in most sizes instantly upon release. But what makes 18 East standout is that the cult love for the brand isn’t fueled by a logo worn by a recognizable celebrity in a campaign or a hyped up sneaker collaboration that flips for an inflated resale value.

Instead, the brand has found success these past couple years by delivering high-quality garments that can speak to anyone. Skaters and those who traditionally love the streetwear basics of a T-shirt and hoodie would have fallen in love with 18 East’s ‘Strictly Roots’ collection this year, a capsule that paid homage to classic skateboard labels like Alphanumeric and Metropolitan. Gorpcore enthusiasts who have plenty of Snow Peak or vintage North Face pieces in their closet might have eyed the label’s nylon “Helly Hooded” shells or their ‘70s-inspired rain cagoules. The brand has even dropped 1000 Denier ballistic nylon bibs fit for a snowboarding enthusiast that loves Burton and a Western-inspired denim shirt that would fit perfectly inside Ralph Lauren’s RRL. Ciongli has catered to an impressive range of lifestyles with 18 East and will likely only garner more fans in the near future.—Lei Takanashi

Denim Tears

Standout Moments: Denim Tears signing a two-year partnership deal with Levi’s and releasing a collaboration with the Alvin Ailey Foundation

Tremaine Emory, a.k.a. Denim Tears has come a long way from being a stock associate for Marc Jacobs in 2006. Today, the Queens, New York native has built a reputation for being one of the most trusted creatives within the fashion and streetwear space. Emory has worn many different hats over the years including, but not limited to, hosting parties, podcasts, and pop-ups through his creative platform No Vacancy Inn, working as a brand director for Yeezy, and now serving as a creative/art director for Stüssy. But when it comes to his own clothing, what has always made Emory stand out is that his vision is deeply personal and goes beyond just selling products. Since losing his mother in 2015, he’s sold T-shirts with a drawing of her red velvet cake annually at Procell with all proceeds going towards Every Mother Counts—a nonprofit focused on making pregnancy and childbirth safe for every mother. For Denim Tears, a collaboration isn’t just for exposure, but serves as an opportunity to urge larger brands to re-evaluate their own practices. Last year, Emory took a stand and publicly urged Nike to not release his Converse Chuck 70 collaboration unless the company made more concrete commitments to diversity and racial equity—it led Converse to collaborate with Hank Willis Thomas’ non-profit, For Freedoms, on a campaign to get more voters to the polls in swing states.

Emory has continued to drop pieces that capture and redefine images or symbols that define the African-American experience. A parody of a Polo flag sweater, popularized by Lo Lifes in Brooklyn and Black models like Tyson Beckford, was reimagined to bear the Pan-African flag—the sweater is currently being exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum along with a Denim Tears x Levi’s jacket. A “Trans-Atlantic” military flight jacket he dropped this year includes a patch that commemorates the year 1619 on the chest—the year the first African slaves arrived in America. In April, Emory inked a two-year partnership deal with Levi’s and released a collaboration with Our Legacy that was centered on his popular cotton wreath motif. The symbol has been historically associated with the oppression of African Americans for years, but Emory single-handedly re-contextualized it into an aspirational symbol with every hyped Levi’s drop. As a designer, Emory knows how to tell incredibly rich stories. This fall, he released a collaboration that put a spotlight on the Alvin Ailey Foundation and also created a capsule inspired by the Windrush Generation—Caribbean immigrants who arrived in the United Kingdom between 1948 and 1971 who have been unfairly classified as illegal immigrants by the British government in recent years. It goes without saying that the clothes Denim Tears makes look great, whether that’s a pair of brick red Asics or a leather varsity jacket made in collaboration with Stüssy. But what truly makes Denim Tears one of best, and most impactful, brands out right now is that clothing isn’t just about the look or generating hype. It’s about using clothes as a vehicle for change.—Lei Takanashi

Louis Vuitton

Standout Moments: GZA performing “4th Chamber” off Liquid Swords for Virgil Abloh’s final show and Kai Isaiah Jamal becoming the first Black trans model to walk on Louis Vuitton’s runway.

Where will Louis Vuitton be without Virgil Abloh? Unfortunately, this year also marks the end of Virgil Abloh’s run as the brand’s artistic director of menswear. Before the designer tragically passed away at 41 due to cardiac angiosarcoma in November, he left with us two of the best collections he has ever designed during his illustrious career.

His Fall/Winter 2021 collection, titled “Ebonics,” was one of his most thoughtful and powerful collections for Louis Vuitton. The collection was presented through a filmed performance art piece that starred the poet Saul Williams and Yasiin Bey (Mos Def). Thematically inspired by James Baldwin’s 1953 essay “Stranger in the Village,” Abloh’s sixth collection deeply reflected on his position as Louis Vuitton’s first Black artistic director of menswear. Abloh took Baldwin’s essay, which detailed his experience feeling ostracized as a Black man in Europe and America, and juxtaposed it against his popular “Tourist vs. Purist” mantra. His show notes described it as “society’s established structure of outsiders vs. insiders.” And as toxic internet commenters showed, many self-proclaimed fashion insiders always saw Abloh as an outsider who was never a “real designer.” This notion came to a head last year when Abloh was heavily scrutinized by the Belgian designer Walter Van Beirendonck, who accused Abloh of copying his designs. Despite Van Beirendonck’s accusations, some pointed out that Van Beirendonck was guilty of copying himself, culturally appropriating designs in the past.

For his Fall/Winter 2021 collection, Abloh toyed with the classic childhood question: “What do you want to be when you grow up?” It led him to re-envision the dress code of everyday characters such as the artist, the salesman, the architect, and the drifter. Monogrammed bags shaped like airplanes and three-dimensional puffer jackets designed to resemble the New York City skyline were some of the most extravagant pieces Abloh made for the brand. Others included amplified normcore pieces, like elevated bathrobes, denim jackets, and oversized trench coats. But like his other collections for Louis Vuitton, we also saw Abloh proudly celebrating his Ghanian heritage and Black culture throughout the entire collection. There were Kente cloth robes inspired by his grandmother and motorcycle suits inspired by African wax print fabrics from Abloh’s mother—one of the Kente cloth pieces was beautifully worn by the poet Amanda Gorman for Vogue’s May issue this year. Other designs make subtle references to early-2000s rap fashion such as a pair of trainers inspired by Nike Foamposites and a Pelle Pelle-esque leather jacket.

Abloh followed that up with an equally as impressive Spring/Summer 2022 collection, which became his final collection for Louis Vuitton. Titled “Amen Break,” the collection was named after a drum break from the 1969 song “Amen, Brother” that has been widely sampled by both early hip-hop and drum and bass artists. The collection was also presented through a short film and inspired by the “sampling” or reinterpretation of designs through the lens of fashion. What made “Amen Break” one the most memorable collections of Abloh’s career was that it holistically represented Abloh’s values as a designer who championed both diversity and overlooked subcultures. The setting of the film/collection was inspired by how the Wu-Tang Clan absorbed martial arts into hip-hop culture. There’s even a scene where the GZA is captured playing chess while “4th Chamber” off Liquid Swords plays in the background. Garments included Louis Vuitton caps designed by Don C, a designer who sampled vintage snapback hats to give them a luxurious twist that became a must-have item for any New York City kid growing up in the early 2010s. There were also official Louis Vuitton x Nike Air Force 1s, one of the earliest examples of a luxury label being “sampled” to produce elevated bootlegs that were popularized by Harlem’s own Dapper Dan and worn by Uptown’s own DJ E-Z Rock in the ‘80s. There were even direct references to music samples via the jungle music pioneer Goldie, who wore a look for the show and had his Metalheadz record label stamped onto a silver LV record trunk. As a designer, Abloh’s last collection for Louis Vuitton exemplified what he did best—finding value in art that others have historically found valueless. Whether that was celebrating the work of the street artist Jim Joe—whose art was turned into beautiful suits and Keepall bags—or a reinterpretation of a classic B-Boy crew neck that was originally designed by a New York City breaker in a photo by Jamel Shabazz from the early ‘80s. For his final collections, Abloh respectfully gave his flowers to those who’ve influenced his creative vision.

And even during his final months heading Louis Vuitton, Abloh continued to amplify Black voices throughout. He put the spotlight on 21 Savage in his Spring/Summer 2021 campaign. He hired photographer Renell Medrano to shoot the campaign for his collaboration with the NBA in Harlem—a capsule that was also designed alongside Chicago’s Don C. Perhaps what best encapsulates what Abloh did for luxury fashion is within this dialogue from his Fall/Winter 2021 collection shared by Kai Isaiah Jamal, the first Black trans model to walk for Louis Vuitton. “As Black people, as trans people, as marginalized people, the world is here for our taking, for it takes so much from us.” Abloh never stopped taking Louis Vuitton, and luxury fashion, into the direction it had to go in. And one can only hope that long after his passing, his commitments to diversity and inclusion will continue to influence the rest of the industry—Lei Takanashi

Human Made

Standout Moments: Collaborative capsules with Kaws and Lil Uzi Vert, releasing his own coffee with Blue Bottle.

When it comes to streetwear, there are few individuals as important as Nigo. Throughout the 2000s, his cotton candy-colored, camo-covered creations with Bape and Billionaire Boys Club defined an entire era. The General may no longer be at the helm of Bape, he hasn’t been since 2013, but he is still creating memorable products through his current venture, Human Made. Founded in 2010, Human Made is Nigo’s take on classic Americana. Raw denim, trucker jackets, wide leg chinos, and button-ups are all constants in Human Made’s collections. Other drops have consisted of cozy fleeces perfect for the outdoors complete with Patagonia logo flips. Sprinkled in are graphic T-shirts and hoodies bearing what have now become Human Made’s signatures like hearts, ducks, bulldogs, and the phrase “Gears for Futuristic Teenagers.” The graphics have become so synonymous with the designer that they were even prominently featured across a variety of items from Nigo’s collaborative work with Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton.

Some of Human Made’s most memorable graphic offerings came in the form of collaborations. Two different capsules released with longtime friend and collaborator KAWS that repurposed a handful of the brand’s aforementioned mascots with the artist’s signature “X” eyes. Another collab was a bit more surprising, a small capsule with Lil Uzi Vert, which featured T-shirts, hoodies, a pink mug, and a pillow. Each featured a friendly bat illustration complete bearing Uzi’s infamous pink forehead gem. An ongoing partnership with Blue Bottle Coffee and his Storm Cowboy Sake have acted as building blocks in the culinary world that Nigo has previously entered through his Curry Up restaurants in Japan.

Human Made has always had its supporters and always made solid products. Look no further than Pharrell’s wardrobe if you need proof of that. But it feels like Nigo has finally found a perfect balance between more mature cut and sew items he himself wants to wear and the playful graphics that many of his early adopters may still be nostalgic for. With a debut Kenzo collection and a full-length album set to come in 2022 alongside more Human Made goodies, we are looking forward to seeing a legend like Nigo keep his second act winning streak going. —Mike DeStefano

Union Los Angeles

Standout Moments: The brand’s collaborations with Vaughn Bodē and Noah.

There are few folks within the streetwear and fashion space who have the vision that Chris Gibbs has. He’s a true veteran who has worked at Union since the ‘90s back when it was based in New York City and owned by Mary Ann Fusco. And he’s kept one of the world’s very first streetwear stores alive for decades now. To celebrate its 30th anniversary, Gibbs has pulled out all the stops to make Union one of the most exciting brands this year. Its in-house label continues to grow with offerings like simple selvedge denim jeans made in the United States, boxy heavyweight fleece hoodies, and heavyweight jersey T-shirts that give their product range an elevated streetwear twist. Collaborations with beloved artists like Vaughn Bodē and graphic T-shirts that reference old reggae record labels like Disco 45 show that Union does “Know the Ledge.” This year, Union released collaborations with brands like Noah, Awake New York, Born x Raised, Cactus Plant Flea Market, and Fear of God to celebrate its big milestone. Of course, Union collaborated with ​​Stüssy to celebrate the heritage of the OG Stüssy Union store that opened in Los Angeles during the early ‘90s. But one of the brand’s standout collaborations this year was with Noah, which was titled “Truth Dare Dream” and reimagined historical figures like Beethoven, Shakespeare, and the French writer Alexandre Dumas as Black. It was a capsule that made great commentary on how history gets whitewashed that also raised funds for the Watts Conservatory of Music in Los Angeles. With Awake New York, Gibbs highlighted a list of books with a campaign nodding to Los Angeles-based creatives like Reggieknow and Taz Arnold. And of course, Union did not disappoint when it released its Air Jordan 4 “Tent & Trails” collaboration this year, which was aptly inspired by the great outdoors. There’s only more to look forward to from Union in 2022.—Lei Takanashi

Supreme

Standout Moments: A collaboration with Clayton Patterson and a Junya Watanabe collaboration centered on the artwork of Bugsex.

Supreme is just too big to fail. The 27-year-old streetwear brand continues to build on its own legacy while expanding as a business. Although Supreme was recently acquired by VF Corp, the same clothing conglomerate that owns brands like Vans and The North Face, it has not lost any of its New York-inspired flavor. The brand still keeps it Downtown, releasing standout collaborations with artists such as Dan Colen and Clayton Patterson—yes, they finally made some Supreme Clayton Caps this year. At the same time, the brand still knows what resonates uptown, as seen with the snakeskin Supreme x Nike ACG boots that were co-signed by Bloody Osiris earlier this year or their recent collaboration with True Religion. And there are still few brands out there that will champion the work of underground artists like the Philly graffiti writer Curve and the British punk rock artist Jamie Reid quite the way that Supreme does. Even for a high-profile collaboration with the revered Japanese designer Junya Watanabe, Supreme used it as an opportunity to highlight the digital artist Bugsex. Really, what other brand will fly a legendary New York City graffiti vandal like Earsnot to Milan and Berlin just to have him paint his iconic tags inside their newest stores? Week after week, resellers are sitting on Discord cook groups hitting multiple checkouts on weekly drops, but Supreme still maintains its image despite how corny the hype culture surrounding it has become. Sure, you have plenty of herbs who buy a whole set of Supreme goods so they can eat a bowl of branded Supreme Wheaties for likes on Instagram. But you also have William Strobeck filming great skaters like Rowan Zorilla for incredible skate clips and movies like STALLION. Although it may feel like Supreme just pulls the same stunts season after season—a new box logo T-shirt, North Face collab, or hyped Nike shoe—the brand still surprises us. An unforseen South 2 West 8 collaboration this year fell right on the money with current gorpcore trends. There were luxurious collaborations with Tiffany & Co., Missoni, and even Emilio Pucci—a lesser-known Italian luxury brand whose psychedelic designs have inspired recent work by designers like Raf Simons and Dries Van Noten. Yet, even as Supreme continuously puts one foot forward, they continue to pay homage to their rich past. This year, we also saw the re-release of KAWS box logos, T-shirts commemorating Supreme’s appearance in the 1999 video game Thrasher Presents Skate and Destroy, a collaboration with Stash, and their first linkup with WTAPS in nearly a decade. Supreme will always be Supreme.—Lei Takanashi

Rhude

Standout Moments: Launching its first fashion campaign starring Future, designing an outerwear capsule with Canada Goose for the NBA, partnering with Instant Brand cookware, and McLaren collaboration

Rhuigi Villaseñor, the creative director and founder of Rhude, raises the bar collection after collection. He started the year off by announcing a collaboration with sports car company McLaren. Villaseñor honed his love for tailored garments and automotive culture and produced a collection that includes items like knits, leather jackets, and sweatsuits all bearing the McLaren logo, which he showed alongside his Fall/Winter 2021 collection that featured women’s, a category he’s dabbled in before but he’s refining his vision for it.

Continuing the streak of firsts, the brand also unveiled its first-ever fashion campaign, tapping Atlanta rapper and fellow collaborator Future. “With the grace of the wonderful Ebonie Ward (Future’s manager) and Future, we came up with an idea to recalibrate Future’s look with my current and next collection,” Villaseñor told Complex when speaking about the campaign. Wearing leather shorts and an embroidered burgundy bomber jacket, Future graced a colossal-sized billboard on Sunset Boulevard, putting a stake in the ground of LA fashion culture. Villaseñor also ventured into the world of outerwear, thanks to Canada Goose and NBA All-Star Weekend, becoming the latest designer to take creative reigns and produce a collection for the players and fans. “Living on the West Coast, I only know what I’m surrounded by, and it can only be so cold in California,” he tells Complex Canada. “So, in some ways, I brought this naivety and innocence to the table when designing.”

While Rhude keeps growing to new heights, Villaseñor makes sure to never forget where he came from. It’s why past collections have been inspired by his grandfather, or why this past May he released cream cashmere snapbacks on his mother’s birthday to raise money for the nonprofit Apex For Youth during Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month. Oh, and he appears to be one of Jay-Z’s favorite designers right now too, certainly not a bad co-sign to have. Rhude’s clothing has become a staple in his wardrobe whenever he steps out these days—he created a varsity jacket commemorating Jay-Z’s recent induction into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame. Villaseñor closed out the year by moving into cookware with an Instant Pot x Rhude electric pressure cooker, a Pyrex x Rhude gift set, Pyrex x Rhude glass food storage, a Corelle x Rhude dinnerware set, and a Chicago Cutlery x Rhude heritage chef knife. Without question, Rhuigi’s label is a standout amongst its counterparts. With only six months into the year, Rhude is running a steady race to the top.—Maria Mora

Fear of God

Standout Moments: Introducing Italian tailoring and honoring the Negro Leagues with its Seventh Collection, debuting new silhouettes and kid’s sizing as part of its Essentials diffusion line, launching the California slip-on

Jerry Lorenzo’s Fear of God continues to age gracefully. Once a brand defined by its grungey flannels and vintage band T-shirts, Lorenzo has morphed the California-based operation and its initial offerings into a perfect representation of modern menswear. One of its biggest steps forward came in 2020 when it released a full collection with Ermenegildo Zegna that merged the FOG ethos with the expert tailoring of the Italian fashion house. The brand’s Seventh Collection expanded on this idea with a heavier focus on timeless silhouettes like the introduction of tailored suiting handmade in Italy, classic Americana denim made in the USA, and elevated takes on sweaters and hoodies made of cashmere and wool. A series of sweatshirts and T-shirts featuring official Negro Leagues graphics were another highlight that acted as a subtle nod to his father, former MLB player and manager Jerry Manuel. And it’s impossible not to mention FOG’s Essentials diffusion line, which has continued to pump out earthy colorways in staples like T-shirts, hoodies, crewnecks, thermals, and more, that give fans of all ages an opportunity to experience the FOG aesthetic who may not have the budget to afford the main line yet. For many individuals, Essentials has become their uniform of choice. Lorenzo also debuted his latest lifestyle footwear in the tail end of 2021, the California, a foam rubber mule that feels equal parts casual and sophisticated, a perfect representation of the world that all of Lorenzo’s creations operate in. The upcoming year also promises to be another strong one for Fear of God. Along with its continued strides forward with its main line, we will also be getting the first taste of Lorenzo’s latest work in the sportswear space with Adidas Basketball.

Lorenzo was a major player in bridging the gap between streetwear and luxury for so many years prior. He continues to be one of modern fashion’s defining faces. As Fear of God continues to further infiltrate the world of luxury, Lorenzo is proving he still has plenty of ideas up his sleeve to keep his brand fresh and relevant as his fanbase matures with him.—Mike DeStefano

Stüssy

Standout Moments: Retroing its Nike Air Huarache collab for the first time since 2001, its Spring 2021 collection, its Birkenstock collaboration, the Our Legacy x Denim Tears varsity jacket

If you have been around for over 40 years in streetwear, you must be doing something right. And despite some down years along the way, Stüssy is back doing what it does best, helping shape and progress the fashion subgenre. Part of the reason that Stüssy has been able to rejuvenate itself in the marketplace has been the consistency of its collaborations. Among some of the standouts were a colorful, graphic-heavy capsule with Cactus Plant Flea Market back in June and a collection with Union to celebrate the shop’s 30th anniversary that even saw the brand take over Stüssy’s SoHo flagship back in July. Its trio of Birkenstock Bostons instantly flew off shelves upon release back in August. More recently, it impressed with a three-way capsule with Our Legacy and Tremaine Emory’s Denim Tears highlighted by a varsity jacket covered in patchwork celebrating the trio. But its biggest and most consistent collaborator was Nike. In January, the two brands linked up for a recycled nylon puffer hoodie and pants highlighted by a unique green dye treatment. A month later, Nike joined forces with Stüssy again to relaunch its cult classic Air Huarache collab for the first time since 2001 that were accompanied by cozy gray and black sweatsuits. What makes each project so good is that each is able to cater to its own unique pocket of streetwear without feeling forced. Someone lining up for a baby blue vacation shirt covered in hearts may not be the same person after a pair of Our Legacy work boots, but neither product feels out of place because of the wide reach that Stüssy has been able to establish across streetwear.

It isn’t all about the collabs though. Stüssy’s seasonal deliveries have also been full of items worth adding to your closet. Along with the usual suspects like core logo hoodies and T-shirts, there were also unique must-haves like a cream sweater with a billiards-inspired graphic covering the chest, a cozy forest green fleece jacket covered in blue flowers, a vacation shirt with large peaches printed all over it, or a cream chore coat with a contrasting corduroy collar. These are pieces that can give your wardrobe the perfect balance and live in your closet for years to come. For anyone eager to get back to traveling, new Chapter stores opened in Kyoto and Shibuya this year too, an indicator that somehow there is still room for this OG to grow. Four decades later and Stüssy is still at the top of its game and helping define an era. That doesn’t happen by accident.—Mike DeStefano

Kith

Standout Moments: Opening a flagship in Paris, reuniting Dipset to rap in Madison Square Garden for its collaboration with the New York Knicks, releasing a book to celebrate its 10th anniversary

Ten years later, Kith has established itself as one of the most recognized and accomplished names in streetwear. Despite the pandemic, Ronnie Fieg managed to close 2020 off strong with a collaboration with the New York Knicks, an homage to the city’s beloved basketball team complete with a special freestyle by Harlem’s own Dipset. Fieg was undoubtedly setting the tone for what’s to come in 2021.

At the top of the year, the brand dropped a full range of apparel and accessories that paid homage to the iconic animated comedy series, The Simpsons. To tie a bow on the collaboration, there was even an immersive in-store installation of the Simpsons’ home at its SoHo store. Fieg made it a point to hit all of the senses with a Kith Treats version of the series’ infamous pink doughnut created in collaboration with Doughnut Plant, too. Fieg also partnered with the Christopher Wallace (Notorious B.I.G) estate to commemorate the 23rd anniversary of his death with a collection that features iconic Biggie imagery. Additionally, Kith is the only streetwear brand that has publicly committed to the “15 Percent Pledge”—which means that Kith will dedicate at least 15% of its retail to Black-owned businesses and brands.

Following the opening of Kith Tokyo last July, Kith made its debut in Europe in late February, opening its largest store to date in none other than Paris. Longtime partners Snarkitecture designed the 16,000-square-foot store, which features Carrara marble, barrel-vaulted ceilings, and an indoor Sadelle’s restaurant. It’s an impressive move to say the least that plants the Kith flag in the middle of one of the fashion capitals of the world, and shows the brand is committed to growing its global presence beyond its roots in New York City with each passing year. In August, the brand expanded its global presence further with the grand opening of a flagship in Hawaii. Each was marked with limited edition colorways of the Air Force 1 that dropped exclusively at each location.

And that isn’t all Kith has done in 2021. It celebrated the Summer Olympics in Tokyo with a campaign full of iconic Team USA athletes from Jason Kidd to Kerri Walsh Jennings and Misty-May Treanor. It built upon existing partnerships with Calvin Klein and Russell Athletic. As part of Kith’s ongoing work with Nike that includes a second straight year producing the Knicks’ City Edition uniforms, Fieg restored two basketball courts in Queens for the local community. Fieg was also able to further cement his place in the footwear industry. Already having a wide range of collaborations under his belt and over three decades of experience, he was named the creative director for Clarks Originals’ new 8th Street sublabel. The Queens native now designs original silhouettes that hone in on the iconic shoemaker’s craftsmanship. The partnership kicked off in April with the debut of the Sandford and Lockhill. Fieg is making sure to end the year with a bang too, by celebrating Kithmas throughout December. In true holiday spirit, projects include work with Star Wars, Barbie, and even a special edition Kith Monopoly board. As big as Kith is already, Fieg continues to find new ways to grow. The brands shows no sign of slowing down any time soon. —Maria Mora