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Written by James Harris (@Dr_TacoMD)
I only shop in Tokyo. That may be the most pretentious statement I've ever made, but with the opportunity to wander around Shibuya and Harajuku while visiting my Japanese family every year, of course I'm only going to shop in Tokyo.
After the most recent family Christmas trip, I came back to Complex with grail-tales like I had been to El Dorado or The Fountain of Jawn or some other paradise. I was still bleary with jetlag and busy humble-bragging when this assignment was thrown my way, but I realized the first troubling question had already arisen: How to pass off such a subjective list as a definitive one?
The subjectivity of the list isn't due to my amateur knowledge of brands from the Land of the Rising Sun. The reason that ranking Japanese brands is such a subjective exercise is because every designer and consumer in that country is so dedicated to their specific craft that they could give a flying F about where some gawking gaijin would rank them.
Another concern was the means by which we knew about these brands. Be honest: How many people were truly aware of small and independent Japanese brands before the proliferation of the Internet? Most of the information in this list was dug up from ancient forum threads (going as far back as 2005), and, as a foreign observer, there may be brands that escaped my attention. Feel free to voice your dissent in the comments.
And finally, what even constitutes a Japanese brand? Geography and financial ownership doesn't exactly denote "Japaneseness." Just because a brand like J. Press is owned by a Japanese company doesn't make it any less of an all-American brand. And while Kenzo has been based in Paris since its inception, its signature aesthetic is directly influenced by traditional kimono prints, and head designer Kenzo Takada is a leader of the Japanese creative community living in Paris. Ultimately, I had to go with the decision-maker that any proud American would trust: my gut.
The following list is 50 Japanese brands ranked by their historical significance, contemporary influence, and contributions to style both on the island-nation of Nippon and abroad. From the most fundamental streetwear to labels that changed the entire notion of fashion and clothing, here are The 50 Best Japanese Brands of All Time.
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50. Bounty Hunter
Bounty Hunter is a perfect example of how numerous Japanese brands appropriate a very specific aspect of American culture, filter and warp it with a unique perspective, and create something even better than the original. Bounty Hunter started as a Harajuku toy company in the 1995, and as their toys found an audience, founder Hikaru Iwanaga expanded to tees, hoodies, and other necessary basics. The clothes reflected the same attitude as the toys: what happens when children go punk? The simple formula of infusing American punk, rockabilly, and motorcycling culture into a Japanese toy brand has resulted in a brand that consistently puts out awesome clothes that are as badass as they are fun.
49. Lad Musician
Lad Musician combines two common obsessions in Japanese fashion: crisp tailoring and rock 'n roll. Designer Yuichi Kuroda started the brand in 1995 for guys who wanted to dress like modern day rockstars and had the skinny tall build to pull it off. With collections that had titles like "Cocksucker Blue," the subversive and minimalist garments immediately caught on with the Japanese youth culture that lived and breathed rock 'n roll. Lad Musician even altered the entire men's fashion landscape by designing for a certain body type. Soon other brands were cutting their clothes tall and skinny, and a whole generation of dudes developed body image issues.
48. Samurai Jeans
Samurai Jeans were one of the premiere raw denim brands in the 1990s and 2000s. After 15 years in the game, the obsession with Japanese denim may have subsided just slightly, but Samurai Jeans are still churning out great product. The brand distinguished itself from like-minded competitors by experimenting with dyes and fabrics. For one pair, persimmon juice was used as dye, and the brand created a pair of jeans so strong that it could stand on its own legs. Also, having a leather patch that depicts the epic battle of 1612 between Miyamoto Musashi and Sasaki Kojiro is definitely gonna move a few pairs.
47. Satoru Tanaka
Satoru Tanaka is one of the few designers who started out in the booming Harajuku fashion scene of the '90s and seamlessly transitioned into Tokyo's high-end fashion world. Throughout his whole career, he's found success by doing the antithesis of what's hot at the time. When he started his first brand in 1997, baggy shirts and hoodies were all the rage, so he made suits. Tanaka got out the streetwear game and founded his eponymous brand in 2002. As a fuck you to the business-focused world he had entered, he only used black textiles and ignored all trends and what everyone else was doing. Tanaka is known for subtly manipulating traditional European suiting - a move that's garnered critical acclaim and scored him a handful of prestigious design jobs, including a Uniqlo collabo.
46. Needles
Engineered Garments may be the best known of the Nepenthes brands, but Needles is the in-house label from Japan that's quietly garnered a dedicated cult following with its kooky take on Old West, military, and athletic garb. Designed by Nepenthes' founder Keizo Shimizu, the brand is made in Japan and is constantly offering new materials and patterns in collections that look like they were conceived of by gypsy kings. It may not be for everyone, but the quirkiness of Needles allows it to escape being pigeonholed into any one category and is exactly why so many guys with unique style love it.
45. Kapital
Kapital is one of Japan's best kept secrets, and a brand that people probably keep close to the chest to cut down on the competition trying to snatch up what little clothes there are available. The latest SS13 collection took the Ivy look that's been popular in Japan since the 1960s and added an awesome element of hooliganism. To give an idea of how the brand has warped traditional Americana to create awesomely unique clothing, past season's titles have included "Azure Anarchy," "Sea Gypsies," and "Denimking for Sunken Treasure." Trust us, the collections are as incredible as they sound.
44. waste(twice)
Japan is never short of brands that take classic American utilitarian wear and remix it with modern detailing, improvements in quality, and quirky design. waste(twice) takes inspiration from masculine pursuits ranging from fishing to safari to alpine skiing and makes them completely wearable in any setting. It's a brand that's still tough to come by outside of Japan, but if your life consists of analyzing the advantages of quinoa vs. couscous then it's time to hunt down some waste(twice) so you at least look manly.
43. SHIPS
SHIPS has been supplying Japanese men with collections of casually mature sportswear since 1975. Banking off the American Ivy and trad looks that have enjoyed popularity since the '60s, SHIPS is the gateway brand for young Japanese guys looking to get into the game, or for the average guy who just needs to appear acceptable at his job or on the street.
It's because of Japanese brands like SHIPS, United Arrows, and Uniqlo, which all offer quality duds at reasonable pricing that the average Japanese Jun has the ability to look so much better than the average American Joe. Thankfully, American brands like J. Crew and Club Monaco are taking cues from these guys.
42. John Bull
In the wave of popularity that Japanese denim brands enjoyed in the 1990s and 2000s, John Bull was slightly lost amongst the flashier companies that aggressively branded themselves. But if a brand has been successfully crafting quality product since 1963, then you better pay attention. John Bull is one of the original denim brands that bought up the vintage looms that Levi's, Wrangler, and other American companies sold off in the 1960s and has been creating high-quality selvage denim ever since. The strong workwear aesthetic has extended in recent years to a full line of apparel, and true denimheads put John Bull jeans in the same category as well-known brands like Evisu and Studio D'Artisan.
41. Man of Moods
For 10 years, designer Masakazy Fukuyama was a professional snowboarder who later used his extreme sports and traveling experiences to launch Man of Moods alongside designer Yuya Noguchi, who cut his teeth at Comme des Garçons. Unlike 99% of technically-driven brands, Man of Moods creates super dark clothing that looks built to outlast the zombie apocalypse while outdoing whatever Mother Nature throws your way. The concept or rockstar technical gear sounds corny as fuck, but Fukuyama and Noguchi have somehow done just that without falling prey to the cheesiness that could've been.
40. Oscar and Jesus
Oscar and Jesus is one of those Japanese brands that is so elusive you can't be sure it truly exists until you visit their flagship store in Shinjuku. The brand was founded in 2007, and found success among Tokyo's most stylish dudes in 2008. Their collections are shown in highly exclusive exhibitions in Paris, and their debut Tokyo show in 2010 mainly used distressed fabrics that caught the eye of Kanye West. The rapper wore Oscar and Jesus in the "All of the Lights" video, and other stylish dudes like Drake and Usher have been seen rocking the brand. While the info out there is scarce, it'd pay to get familiar now before every aspiring hypebeast jumps on this brand.
39. Julius_7
Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, and Issey Miyake all put avant-garde Japanese fashion on the map, establishing the idea that their creations went beyond clothing and were artistic expressions in the form of clothes. The brand Julius_7 has taken this avant-garde pursuit a step further by creating garments that are so out there but so wearable at the same time. The clothes are incredibly progressive, but they aren't overly intellectual to the point of exclusion, a fine line that Julius has expertly walked since 2001.
Designer Tatsuro Horikawa started Julius_7 as an art project to explore his spiritual and religious side, but the extremely high craftsmanship of the clothes soon attracted fans that ranged from underground punks to businessmen on the weekends. While art and music are still incorporated into the brand, it's the clothes that have become the focal point of Julius_7. Whatever Horikawa's religion is, we thank the higher powers for that.
38. Ato Matsumoto
After the mid-2000s were dominated by Bapesta and BBC Ice Cream sneakers, there was a void waiting to be filled by the next big thing. Starting in 2007, Kanye made sure everyone was scrambling to get their hands on a pair of Ato Matsumoto sneakers. The rapper wore them in the video for "Stronger," setting off a trend for anything that was associated with a futuristic Akira-esque Tokyo where robots built humans and rappers wore shutter shades.
Ato Matsumoto actually designs a full line of high-end apparel and footwear, but it is definitely the sneakers that are best known. The influence these had on the Air Yeezy's design is undeniable, but sadly Ato sneakers will most likely be forever associated with shutter shades.
37. Haversack
Plenty of designers use the '50s and '60s as inspiration, but few can hark back to the '20s, '30s, and '40s without venturing into dreaded steampunk territory. Designer Koji Norihide is one of those rare guys who uses the past to create a whole new look that is equally fresh and familiar. His brand Haversack was launched in 1997 and quickly gained a cult fan base, and has slowly crept onto the radars of guys who pay attention to the brands coming out of Japan. Though the clothes definitely have a throwback military and old-school explorer aesthetic, uncomplicated fabrics and reliable cuts make these clothes as wearable as any sportswear brand. Haversack is definitely one of those brands you see old Italian and Japanese guys get streetstyled in and wonder how the fuck they pull it off. Well, the more you know...
36. nonnative
Not to over-generalize, but whenever we see Japanese guys streetstyled they always look so effortlessly cool. Like these breezily stylish dudes, nonnative is one of those brands that consistently puts out collections that always look so fresh by sticking to a simple aesthetic and focusing on quality. nonnative never oversteps the military and workwear influences it's mastered, and the undemanding coolness might just get you an approving nod from a steezy Japanese guy in Shibuya. But probably not.
35. Head Porter
One of several members of this list that has Hiroshi Fujiwara, aka the godfather of Harajuku, at the creative helm, Head Porter is the only accessories brand to make the cut. The bags are instantly recognizable, and are heavily coveted by Japan's most fashionable dudes. The brand has collaborated with a ton of other top brands, including Mastermind Japan, Comme des Garçons, and Undercover. The eclectic line also launched Head Porter Plus, which offers a full range of simple but quality-built and great looking apparel.
34. Buzz Rickson's
The first dose of international fashion that the Japanese had in the 20th century was the military wear that occupying US soldiers wore in post-WWII Japan. This ongoing fascination led to the establishment of Buzz Rickson's in 1993, a company that produces exact reproductions of vintage US army and air force clothing. An immense amount of research into the context of the clothing is done for each individual garment. For example, Buzz Rickson's has been known to intentionally mess up stitching in order to mimic the unreliable machines used at the time.
Though the brand's creed dictates that they only reproduce items that already existed, fiction became reality when science fiction author William Gibson penned a novel in which the protagonist wears a Buzz Rickson MA-1 Flight Jacket. This item never existed, but enough style nerds petitioned Buzz Rickson until the William Gibson collection, including the now famous MA-1 jacket, was born.
33. J.S. Homestead
Ever since the end of WWII, Japan has had an ongoing fascination with all things American. Ironically, the re-interpretations that Japanese brands have produced are usually highly coveted back in America for their unbelievable quality that doesn't compromise on style. One of those brands, J.S. Homestead, designs select vintage pieces and mixes in modern basics and details. Fortunately for us, it's a brand that has been making forays into American retail, but it still remains one of those labels that people speak about in hushed whispers.
32. Blue Blue Japan
Blue Blue Japan is the in-house brand of the Tokyo based store Okura. Started in 1993, the brand mainly uses traditional Japanese indigo in its pieces, which means each garment ages uniquely. The designers behind Blue Blue Japan apply traditional dying and craft skills to modern day garments that are stocked by stores like Unionmade and the Norse Store. The notion of combining traditional techniques to modern looking clothes is nothing new, but Blue Blue Japan's fusion of the two is undeniably one of the best out there.
31. The Soloist
Fans of Takahiro Miyashita were crushed when it was announced that he was shutting down his beloved NUMBER (N)INE brand in 2009. But Miyashita was back as soon as AW10 with The Soloist, a collection that offered incredibly complex pieces in muted colors. Miyashita claims that the unisex clothes are really just designs that he wants to wear. "My lifestyle and my spirit are the key elements,” he told an interviewer about the launch of The Soloist. For fans of the designer, that's perfectly fine.
30. Hysteric Glamour
Based solely on American pop culture from the 1960s and '70s, designer Nobuhiko Kitamura creates each piece of Hysteric Glamour with US pop culture references that influenced him as a child. From comic books, porno, cars, and artists, since 1984 Kitamura has created clothing that is quintessential rock 'n roll, and he fulfilled every role required to build it into the large chain store that it is today. Hysteric Glamour has recently expanded into a full line of apparel, and it remains as sought-after as the original t-shirts.
29. Uniform Experiment
Uniform Experiment was launched in 2008 by arguably two of the most influential people behind Japanese streetwear: Hiroshi Fujiwara and Hirofumi Kiyonaga. When the two minds that essentially shaped the influential Harajuku fashion and streetwear scene get together, you know the results are gonna be good. Uniform Experiment offers a muted and refined version of streetwear that still has flashes of flamboyance combined with timeless styles. If Uniform Experiment is carrying the torch for Japanese streetwear into the coming years, then we'll gladly follow along.
28. The Viridi-Anne
The Viridi-Anne is one of those sinister brands that has the Internet going nuts. Created in 2001 by Tomoaki Okaniwa, the brand has in a very short time garnered a dedicated fanbase for its innovative construction and materials combined with traditional shapes and ideas. Like most Japanese brands, Okaniwa holds manufacturing practices up to the highest possible levels, ensuring that these flowing garments are durable enough to withstand the apocalypse they seem to welcome.
27. SOPHNET.
SOPHNET. was launched in 1998 and has had the attention of fashionable Japanese men ever since. As a brand that walks the line between pure streetwear and higher-end clothing, SOPHNET. appeals to both markets and everything in between. Designer Hirofumi Kiyonaga remains homies with Hiroshi Fujiwara aka the godfather of Harajuku and the SOPHNET. aesthetic stems from their times pioneering the fashion scene in the late '80s and early '90s. If the general trend of streetwear brands is trying to grow up, it looks like SOPHNET. beat everyone else to the adult table.
26. United Arrows
United Arrows is probably comparable to J. Crew in America. Offering boutique fashions at reasonable pricing, United Arrows has multiple divisions catering to specific consumers but the general philosophy is to offer quality clothes that look good without breaking the bank. Perhaps the label's best PR efforts involve having a team that is constantly streetstyled at various Fashion Weeks arond the world. We see you, Poggy and Camoshita-san!
25. 45rpm
45rpm is the parent company of multiple sub-brands that each specialize in very specific niches, but the original brand has been around since 1978. Originally a denim company that has extended out to full apparel, 45rpm creates super relaxed clothing with a strong focus on quality and craft. Traditional dying techniques are utilized in full effect, and shades of indigo dominate the brand's colorschemes season after season. 45rpm's easygoing and casual lookbooks may provide glimpses at well-constructed clothes that look awesome, but they also provide constant temptation to drop everything and relocate to the Japanese countryside.
24. N.Hoolywood
N.Hoolywood has an immediately recognizable look that uses retro pieces to create contemporary outfits. The designer, Daisuke Obana, started his career in fashion as a buyer of vintage and used clothing, earning the nickname Mister Hollywood when he traveled to LA while hunting down some vintage goods. The brand debuted in Tokyo in 2002 and immediately garnered attention from the international scene. Obana brought his brand to NYC several times in the past few years to critical acclaim, and the trajectory of the brand has not slowed down.
23. Phenomenon
Streetwear's latest trend is "maturing" to include items that lean more classic and shy away from tees, hoodies, and sneakers. While many brands have pulled this off, Phenomenon is one of the few that truly transcends expectations of a streetwear brand trying to grow up. With several runway shows under its belt, Phenomenon still retains a hip-hop influence while also infusing elements of trad and mixed-materials that are both unexpected and dope as hell. It's a very thin line that Phenomenon is skirting, but it seems like this is the niche they've established over the past few seasons.
22. Studio D'Artisan
Studio D'Artisan has been weaving denim on vintage looms in Osaka since 1979. It was one of the most popular denim brands when the world fell in love with Japanese selvage denim in the '90s. A lawsuit by Levi's crippled Studio D'Artisan's distribution networks, but they are still widely considered one of the OG's of the denim game. Their jeans are still heavily sought after, and the fact that they're now harder to find has probably done nothing but increase their desirability.
21. Undercover
Undercover has been called "the essence of Japanese cool," and has been the Japanese darling of both streetwear and high-end fashionistos alike since the men's collection debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2010. The true beginnings of the brand go back to 1993 when designer Jun Takahashi opened a store along with Nigo of A Bathing Ape. The success and expansion of the shop meant that Undercover was soon on the catwalks of Tokyo, showing off clothes that Takahashi described as "strange, but beautiful." His collaboration with Nike Sportswear has been hugely successful, as was his partnership with Uniqlo. It won't be long before Undercover is cracking the top 10 of lists like these.
20. Beams+
A guy could only shop within the Beams empire and easily be one of the most stylish dudes in his clique. But it's Beams+'s dedication to Americana between 1930-1970 that got it on this list. Enough brands are harking back to this era, but none do it so effortlessly as Beams+, which offers simple classics without looking old-fashioned. Since 1999, the label has reinterpreted America's heritage for the Tokyo man, and the Made in Japan production ensures quality that also replicates the good old days.
19. nanamica
nanamica was founded in 2003 by Eiichiro Homma. Though plenty of brands have, with varying degrees of success, attempted to combine a classic aesthetic with performance-driven construction, nanamica is leading this field at the moment. The brand has created trench coats, parkas, and other essential outerwear with technologically superior fabrics like Gore-Tex, Pertex, and Cordura so that you can stay dry without looking like you're on Ski Patrol. Recently, it even started using innovative 100% cotton Gore-Tex—proof that it's at the forefront of combining performance with looking good.
18. W)Taps
W)Taps is overseen by Tetsu Nishiyama, aka TET, a pioneer of the Harajuku fashion scene. After starting up a few brands in the early '90s, TET struck gold with W)Taps in 1996. The brand infused a military aesthetic into sturdily constructed clothes that still carried TET's signature look from his earlier work. After 2003, W)Taps branched out from its military influence to also include trad and Ivy looks. The brand has also collaborated with some of the biggest names out there, including Supreme, Stussy, A Bathing Ape, and Vans.
17. Neighborhood
Neighborhood is the clothing brand for the small but hardcore motorcycle subculture community in Japan. And of course for those looking to emulate these badasses. The Harajuku based brand was established in 1994 by motorcycle enthusiast Shinsuke Takizawa, who was looking for an outlet to express the lifestyle he and his homies were devoted to. The uber-cool streetwear retains a level of high-end sophistication, and is a favorite in the streets and roads of Tokyo.
16. Mastermind Japan
Mastermind Japan was established in 1997 and has been able to keep an impressively low profile since its inception. Designer Masaaki Homma has built an entire high-end brand around the skull and bones motif, and the only thing harder than information on the brand to get ahold of is the actual clothing. Nevertheless, Homma spent eight years working for the master Yohji Yamamoto, and his skills come through in the unbelievably high quality of the clothing, which has drawn comparisons to Hermes. If you can count Karl Lagerfeld among your fans, then you're doing something right.
15. Good Enough
Good Enough was the very first brand launched by the legendary Hiroshi Fujiwara. It was a quintessential streetwear brand that consistently put out sick tees for the cool dudes of '90s Harajuku and Shibuya. The brand definitely influenced the likes of A Bathing Ape and the entire Japanese streetwear scene. On his way to becoming the godfather of Harajuku and dictating global trends, Good Enough was where Hiroshi first made his mark in fashion. It was on the strength and success of this brand that he was able to later pioneer Nike's HTM line and the Fenom line for Levi's. Good enough, indeed.
14. Evisu
They may not have been the first to produce Japanese selvedge denim, but Evisu is definitely the most influential brand to do so, not to mention the most popular. Designer Hidehiko Yamane was working importing clothes to Japan when he realized that there was hardly any quality denim in the Japanese market. After collecting the vintage looms required to weave selvage denim, in the early '90s Yamane began producing 14 pairs a day out of Osaka; each pair received a hand-painted seagull on the back pocket, a practice that evolved in extravagance and intensity. Evisu may have quickly come and gone, but there's no question that it sparked a worldwide interest in vintage denim and the creation of a mini-industry in Japan.
13. Kenzo
Kenzo Takada was born and educated in Japan, but Kenzo really began in Paris, 1964. Without the means to buy reams of fabric, Kenzo resorted to purchasing scraps of fabric at flea markets and mashing them together to create a single garment. Six years later, he presented his first show, his clothes scored the cover of Elle, and he opened a store in Paris called "Jungle Jap." It was the first fashion brand to successfully bridge the luxury of Paris with the sophistication of Tokyo, something that seems commonplace today.
The brand's wild and bold prints were hugely successful, and became the instant signature aesthetic of Kenzo. Along with Kansai Yamamoto, vivid kimono motifs were what defined the vibrant style coming out of Japan as it emerged in the '70s and '80s as a fashion powerhouse. The men's line was launched in 1983, and later stood in stark contrast to the monochromatic minimalism of other Japanese brands in the late '80s and '90s. The brand was recently turned over to Humberto Leon and Carol Lim who have undoubtedly re-positioned Kenzo as a coveted brand as evidenced by the Kenzo fitted caps, sweaters, and suits we've been seeing everywhere for a minute now.
12. Big John
History and denim have a long intertwined existence, with credibility and trust going to those who have been doing it the longest and are still around to tell their story. Big John can claims the honor of being the first to plant the denim flag in Japan, arguably the best denim producing country at the moment. The company traces its roots back to 1940 when Kotaro Osaki founded Maruo Clothing, Inc., which produced uniforms and would later become Big John.
After WWII, Maruo clothing began importing American jeans and tailoring them for the Japanese customer. With the liberalization of imports in the '60s, Maruo manufactured and treated jeans using Canton Textile Mills fabric. In the late '60s, the Big John brand was formed and manufactured jeans using Cone Mills denim. Finally, in 1973, Big John created the first ever 100% made in Japan pair of denim jeans. The brand was wildly popular throughout the '70s, and continued to lead the denim industry in breakthroughs. In the '80s, Big John was the first brand to create Japanese selvage paving the way for virtually every other denim brand on this list. Big John's current offerings all hark back to their archives, and any denim nerd worth their indigo should hold this brand in high esteem.
11. Onitsuka Tiger
Onitsuka Tiger has a long history of trying to get barefooted athletes just to wear shoes. The goal of founder Kihachiro Onitsuka was to raise the self-esteem of children in a war-torn country through athletics. A grip sole, breathable uppers, interchangeable spikes, and other innovations allowed for Onitsuka Tiger sneakers to remain popular in Japan while gracing the feet of countless athletes around the world. Onitsuka Tiger became ASICS in 1977, and while it may be more popular amongst running nerds, you can't ever dismiss the brand that influenced the OG of the shoe game.
In the '60s, a small former American agency of Onitsuka, began selling a shoe called the Cortez, which was based on the Onitsuka Corsair. The name of the guy who ran this agency was named Phil Knight, and he named his business Nike.
10. Uniqlo
Uniqlo has succeeded where companies like the Gap, Urban Outfitters, and H&M have stumbled. With roots going back to 1949 but beginning in earnest in 1984, the fast fashion store has never slipped in providing stylish clothes at consumer-friendly prices and quality. After expanding to 100 domestic stores in its first 10 years and opening a successful location in the Harajuku - the heart of Tokyo's youth fashion scene - the chain began expanding overseas, arriving in SoHo, NYC in 2004 and set to launch more locations in the near future.
Partnerships with Jil Sander and Undercover ensured that the fashion set was on board, but the CEO of Uniqlo USA has explained the "Japaneseness" behind the company philosophy resonates with all people. Uniqlo doesn't dick-ride trends, but instead "offers clothing basics, but basics that are current, that respond to what's going on today in art and design." And at the same time, "the clothing is presented in an organized, rational manner," which are all characteristics of modern Japanese culture. What this results in is a corporate lawyer shopping in the same section as a fashion-forward downtown kid. And what that means is a whole lotta moolah for Uniqlo.
9. Visvim
The allure of many Japanese brands is the mystery of their origins, the inaccessibility of the designer, or the sheer absurdity of the product. And the allure of Visvim is that it stands in opposition to all those things. Designer Hiroki Nakamura started making shoes in 2000 and soon expanded to a full line of footwear and apparel. Many of the brands on this list are strictly about the visual aesthetic or their performance, but none combine the two as perfectly as Visvim does.
Since Day One, Nakamura imposed strict quality control and ethical manufacturing practices at all levels of creation to ensure that the garment that reaches the customer is of the highest caliber. And the combination of American Western and streetwear is an aesthetic that stands on its own in originality and freshness. How dope are they? John Mayer went from certified douche to stylish guy just by draping himself in all Visvim.
8. NUMBER (N)INE
Designer Takahiro Miyashita nearly caused an Internet riot when he announced that he was shuttering the beloved brand NUMBER (N)INE in 2009. The brand was an outlet where Miyashita combined his two obsessions, rock 'n roll and Americana, to create darker versions of classic clothing we thought we already knew.
After getting kicked out of school for having too many side hustles (and smoking weed), Miyashita spent all his time in Harajuku and Shibuya - the epicenters of teen Tokyo fashion and way before they became glitzy tourist destinations. Miyashita cut his teeth at Nepenthes, and later started Number (N)INE, creating dramatic interpretations of Americana with grunge and punk acting as muse in every collection. While his cult-like fans were upset with him for shutting down Number (N)INE, how could anyone stay mad at a guy who answers interviewers with "You would have to ask my brain"?
7. Kansai Yamamoto
His clothes may be avant-garde to the point of being unwearable for most, but Kansai Yamamoto's work in the '70s and '80s laid the foundation of contemporary Japanese fashion and for the outbreak of brands like Comme des Garçons, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto.
In 1971, Yamamoto was the first Japanese designer to show his work in London. His larger-than-life patterns and silhouettes were influenced by the colorful art of the Momoyama period of 1568-1615 and also the vibrant costumes of Kabuki theater. The clothes were seen by David Bowie who later commissioned Yamamoto to create the wardrobe of Ziggie Stardust, leading to an epic partnership and ushering in the influential subculture of glam. Yamamoto hasn't designed since 1992, but the campy extravagance of his clothing and shows were at the height of '70s excess and put Japan on the map as a fashion powerhouse.
6. VAN Jacket
At this point, it's quite clear that the Japanese have mastered the American Ivy and prep look. And the brand that started it all was VAN Jacket, founded by a man named Kensuke Ishizu who led a pretty ridiculously awesome life. After a few exciting exploits, Ishizu created VAN in 1951 and soon aimed at conquering the post-war youth market that was virtually untapped as a market.
Ishizu studied GANT, Brooks Brothers, and other classic brands and was soon manufacturing East Coast collegiate styles that, by the mid-60s were cutting-edge style for the Japanese youth. There was even a subculture of Ivy rebels called miyuki-zoku who were dedicated to the look and to VAN. They were quickly labeled "juvenile delinquents" by officials and the media, and were the first of many youth cultures of Japan to flaunt strict social rules with their clothing. But the Ivy look persisted, and Ishizu's influence can be felt in every aspect of Ivy's success in Japan.
5. Junya Watanabe
The protégé of Rei Kawakubo is one of the greatest designers of our time. After spending close to a decade studying under Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe started his eponymous label under the Comme des Garçons collective umbrella, and later headed the Junya Watanabe Comme des Garçons label. More so than any other brand, his clothes have explored the ways in which technology and style can complement one another, resulting in clothes that aesthetically are beyond what anyone else is doing for menswear at the moment while performing under any and all conditions.
Watanabe is celebrated for taking an individual garment that had seemingly been perfected, taking it apart, and re-constructing it in a way that no one could even conceive of. Kawakubo's mentorship does come through in his men's work at times, but Watanabe is never pursuing the avant-garde goal of trying something completely out of bounds. He claims that his men's clothes are just made to be worn and don't have any meaning or philosophy behind them, and that seems about right. With a lot of Junya Watanabe's clothing, we don't even know we want it until he creates it.
4. Issey Miyake
Issey Miyake is widely considered to be the most internationally famous Japanese designer. Time magazine wrote that "In his three decades of design, Mikaye has worked at the intersection of art and fashion, nature and technology, innovation and tradition, and notably, East and West." His clothes incorporated all these concepts to become more than just structured cloth.
Miyake's mastery of fabric and fabric-production is what allowed him to create such complicated looking garments with ease. He incorporated workwear fabrics into his luxe creations, resulting in textures and layering that no one else could come close to. He was also famous for being one of the first designers to push the progression of his clothing using technology. In the '80s, he focused on pleating to maximize the possible movement of his clothing and revolutionizing manufacturing techniques.
Miyake officially retired in 2000, but has continued working on the A-POC project, which seeks to create garments out of a single piece of cloth. Kenzo Takada, Miyake's contemporary, summed up the designer's hugely influential career when he said that "Issey changed the concept of clothing. He has a Japanese side to him, but it's very modern, very simple, more futuristic."
3. Yohji Yamamoto
Yohji Yamamoto's work had transcended geography and time, making him universally and timelessly cool. Julie Gilhart, fashion director of Barneys New York, described him as ''probably the only designer you could name who has 60-year-olds who think he's incredible and 17-year-olds who think he's way cool.''
After a fantastic debut show in Paris, 1981, Yohjo was given the moniker "rebel designer" for not giving a fuck about trends and forgoing the traditional thoughts on what clothing should be at that point. His 1984 debut men's collection continued this process, and his early men's work laid the foundation for the monochromatic and drapey collections that later defined "goth ninja" and influenced numerous brands on this list. He quickly became known as Japan's leading avant-garde designer, who's oversized silhouettes were complex, abstract, and had a shabby elegance that was unheard of at the time. In direct opposition to Kansai Yamamoto and Kenzo, the two biggest Japanese fashion brands of the '70s, Yohji preferred black and distressed materials to vibrancy and excess. Yohji Yamamoto is one of the few living designers who is widely accepted as a master of his craft. He not only made people pay attention to the fashion coming out of Japan, but helped to reshape the very notion of what fashion was and could be for modern men.
2. A Bathing Ape
While A Bathing Ape may not be the greatest streetwear brand of all time, it is without a doubt the most influential and best streetwear brand to ever come out of Japan. Designer Nigo (which means Number Two after his resemblance to Hiroshi Fujiwara) started in 1993 with a few shirts and hoodies and soon stood at the helm of the Bape empire as its Bapesta sneakers and signature camo print items rapidly took over the streetwear and mainstream realms in the 2000s.
A Bathing Ape perfected the model of exclusivity and limited edition collaborations, fueling it own hype by limiting supply and maximizing exposure. With signature prints and logos being flaunted by the likes of Kanye and Pharrell, everyone knew what they wanted but only a few could get their hands on Bape.
As Nigo expanded his empire and got behind some of the biggest occurrences in streetwear, A Bathing Ape fell victim to the overhype, and was sold to Hong Kong's IT Group in 2011. Bape may now have become one of the dreaded marks of the hypebeast, but there is not a streetwear brand in the world that can claim it was not influenced by A Bathing Ape.
1. Comme des Garçons
Since the men's line launched in 1984, Comme des Garçons has challenged notions of color, form, and convention, all while expanding its collective to include numerous Comme des Garçons lines and designers. As Cathy Horyn wrote, "No living designer, with the exception of Azzedine Alaïa, is held in higher esteem by her peers, and none has enriched our spirit in so many original and confounding ways."
There is not a single designer today who can claim they are not influenced by Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garçons. The brand's various lines have commanded the tastes of steezy guys no matter what their personal sense of style is. Comme des Garçons SHIRT has dominated contemporary menswear, while Play and Homme Deux have become necessities for anyone into streetwear and formal menswear, respectively. With Junya Watanabe and a fistful of upcoming collaborations in the stable, Comme des Garçons is set to rule the foreseeable future.
While it was one of the original brands to make the world pay attention to Japanese fashion, it continues to dominate the style landscape at all levels. For nearly 30 years now, Comme des Garçons has been at the forefront of almost every conversation about men's fashion. The label has re-defined what a brand is capable of, and is the vanguard business that has placed Japanese fashion on top of the world.