Denim Tears founder and ex-Supreme creative director, Tremaine Emory, made a tough decision after the passing of Virgil Abloh.
On the latest episode of Hypebeast's webseries, Business of HYPE, hosted by Awake NY founder, Angelo Baque, the designer discussed joining Supreme, which led to him exiting the company in a public spat last year. At the time, Emory said he endured "systematic racism" at the fashion company, due to Supreme pulling the plug on a collaboration with visual artist Arthur Jafa.
But on Business of HYPE, around the 44-minute mark of the video above, Emory says he was forewarned by Abloh to not join Supreme. Putting the "onus" on himself, Emory recalled that Abloh was privy to alleged hostility within Supreme.
“A big part of why I said yes [to Supreme] was because V passed away. I was like, ‘Well, who do the kids got that looks like them in a position like that?’" Emory said. "V’s advice was like, ‘I don’t know if you should do it. Why are they asking us now?’ That’s literally the last conversation I had with V. He’s like, ‘I don’t know if it’s worth the energy it would take for you to change it culturally.’"
Emory added that instead of "speeding" to become the new Supreme creative director, he regretted not listening to his peers and making a set decision after a period of bereavement.
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"Literally, I got the offer the week V–you know, the actual letter the week V died, like, in Miami," Emory said at the 48-minute mark. "I should have just been like, 'Guys, I'll talk to you in a month. One of my best friends just died.'"
Earlier in the chat, Emory clarified his direction behind Denim Tears, as some have misinterpreted the brand's signature cotton and "Late Capitalism" prints as activism.
"I find it funny when people call Denim Tears social activist clothing. I’ve read books on activists. I’m not an activist. I’m a commercial designer artist," he said at the 36-minute mark. "I don’t like when I get called an activist because I have a lot of respect [for activists]. And it’s a different thing. I am an artist, designer."
