Image via Complex Original
The bomber jacket—or MA-1 as it's formally named—has been a menswear staple for decades. With humble beginnings as practical piece of outerwear for servicemen flying at high altitudes, the jacket has gone from a bulky, nylon jacket, to a tailored top layer.
Streetwear connotations aside, the surplus staple has become something that works as hard as you do—speaking of which, slimmed-down versions are just as commonplace in white-collar workplaces as they are on city sidewalks. With designers like Raf Simons and Stampd tweaking the formula, it's a jacket that's available at far more than your local Army/Navy store.
But if you're debating on whether or not to add the bomber jacket to your rotation, or wondering on how you fit in (literally) with the sheer diversity of MA-1s on the market today, fear not. We're here to give you some pointers on what to expect, what silhouette should work for you, and how designers are changing the way we wear bomber jackets. This is How to Wear a Bomber Jacket.
Notes on Fit
The thing about bomber jackets is that, first and foremost, it's a military piece. Like any other piece of surplus gear, a traditional bomber jacket is going to feel slightly oversized—due chiefly to its original need to accommodate a pilot wearing plenty of equipment. That said, with the bomber's rise as a modern-day wardrobe staple, you're seeing more and more contemporary cuts and shapes applied to the bomber jacket; everything from slim-fit to surplus style is fair game for the modern man's bomber. While traditional fit bombers are certainly more plentiful, they'll fit and work with your kit completely differently than one that is tailored. Keep that in mind when you cop a bomber for yourself, or mix it into a wardrobe. Remember, it doesn't hurt to try before you buy.
To Those That Came Before
We've discussed the origins of the modern-day MA-1 before, but acknowledging the jackets that came before—more specifically, the A-2 and B-15—is a vital part in understanding how bomber jackets fit, and which to buy. Simply put, the A-2 is a collared bomber jacket constructed chiefly of leather. The B-15 is the closest cousin of the MA-1, its recognizable difference being its usual fur collar. While both are considered bomber jackets—something worth noting when you discover what appears after you search “bomber jacket”—their fits are fairly different. While the B-15 does have the bulk you'd find on most reproduced MA-1s, the A-2 is effectively a leather jacket (and fits accordingly). But the A-2 isn't the only standout; the B-15 jacket included loops that were meant to store flight equipment and keep it in place. While MA-1 jackets have typically shed this feature, the inclusion loops and fasteners directly correlate to the “strapped” bombers of the present day.
Long and Short of It
Fear of God and Rick Owens have helped push longline bombers out of the niche and into the limelight. They're certainly not the only designers, but they've helped revolutionize and establish what to expect from a bomber that's as long as an overcoat. Generally speaking, these bombers are usually tailored (and “round out” an outfit aesthetically) like a top coat. In other words, the bulkiness that may be common for a traditional MA-1 won't apply here. Whether layered with a hoodie or worn like a duster coat, there's a lot of conventional ways to style this unconventional silhouette. If you're looking for a decent comparison to what a longline bomber feels like, a fishtail parka seems like a reasonable relation; that said, the fit always feels the way it should—like a bomber jacket.
Layer Up
Bomber jackets were designed to handle the cooler temperatures found at higher altitudes. The liner—along with the knit, cuffs and collar—are traditionally built to handle temperatures that range (colloquially speaking) from late autumn winds, to an early snowstorm. But while the MA-1 bomber is a feat of modern military design, it's not going to be the best choice in more extreme cold weather conditions. That said, you shouldn't be hiding your jacket come December, instead, layer it up like you would any piece of outerwear. Whether you're throwing on a hoodie underneath the jacket, or simply wearing a long tee, the bomber jacket is effectively the greatest layering piece you can add into your closet.
All Work, Still Play
MA-1's may have a history that's more aligned with streetwear as of late, but like the M-65 field coat, you can wear a bomber jacket to work. When you're aiming to keep things cleaned up for the office, you'll want to make sure that your bomber is anything but bulky. That's not to say that a traditional-style MA-1 has no spot among the white collar workforce, but you're better off going with something thinner and tailored, making room for your shirt and tie while complimenting anything from khaki chinos to full-on trousers. Use the jacket's casual nature to your advantage, when you flip your look into after-hours drinks.
Flipping Fabrics
Not all bombers come in nylon. Yes, that's the “default” fabric choice for traditionalists and modernists alike, but there's plenty of other materials that will fit the MA-1 shape. For something more seasonal, try a soft, brown suede in the autumn. For winter, look for a bomber in sturdy leather or soft wool (to keep out the cold), or even options in neoprene for a durable, but different, material choice. When spring finally rolls around again, try a floral print bomber (we see you Dries van Noten) for something a little lighter, in more ways than one. Regardless, when you're going for something with an alternative fabric, aim to keep the cut more simplified and closer to the body. Not every bomber jacket has to have a slim cut, but considering you'll be opting for a different choice of materials, you're better off treating this type of bomber like a fashion-focused outer layer—not something you'll be using for heavy-duty, military-grade wear n' tear.
Strapped Up
Chris Stamp made a crucial choice when he decided to release the “strapped bomber.” Aside from being a highly coveted piece, Stampd's take on the bomber jacket is a reference (either intentional or unintentional) to the works of Raf Simons and Helmut Lang. While the concept varies from “bondage” (as is the case with Lang's version) to authentic military reproduction, the inspirations are authentic, without having to sacrifice designer tastes. Like ones crafted out of non-traditional fabrics, these usually carry a slimmer profile than one you'd cop from a surplus shop (with prices to boot).