Left: Margiela Line 22; Right: Vintage BW Sport
The German Army Trainer has become a ubiquitous part of the modern menswear wardrobe. The classic European silhouette is a mainstay among fans of minimal style and low-profile sneakers alike. Its roots go back to 1936, at the Berlin Summer Olympics. Brothers Adi and Rudolf Dassler had a company called Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik, which translates to “Dassler Brothers Shoe Factory.” Adi Dassler convinced American track legend Jesse Owens to wear a pair of handmade split-toe leather shoes with extra long spikes for his competing events.
Owens went on to win the gold in the 100m, 200m, long jump and 4x100m events, which translated into sales for the Dassler's shoe company as well. By 1948, the brothers had split into their own companies: Adi founded adidas, and Rudolf founded PUMA, but the classic German Army Trainer silhouette remains a cult classic. Any sneaker with a white upper and gum sole looks all the more attractive, but this particular shape set the bar, inspiring countless reinterpretations by companies beyond adidas and PUMA. By the 1970s, the fledgling German army adopted the "bundeswehr sportschuhe" as their de facto indoor training shoe.
By now, Maison Margiela's upscale take on the standard issue sneaker is pretty much part of the menswear enthusiast starter kit, along with a pristine white pair of Common Projects Achilles. It's the kind of entry-level luxury sneaker that costs more than a pair of Jordans at face value, but is eminently more wearable and surreptitiously stylish. While the BW Sport versions of the GAT are readily available at European surplus stores for 35 Euro and some change, there's something to be said about the cachet a pair of Margiela GATs holds.
So is there any quantifiable difference between springing $470 for the Margiela versions (which sell out quickly in the simple white leather/gray suede colorway) or considerably less for a pair of German surplus kicks? We compare the two sneakers side-by-side to figure that out.
Photography by Andy Hur.
Up Close: Maison Margiela Line 22 GAT
Retail price: $470, available at masionmargiela.com
Composition: Leather/Suede
Maison Margiela's versions are made from a 100% calf leather upper with gray suede details on the toebox, around the eyelets, heel, tongue label, and side stripe. The sole is pretty substantial and they're really comfortable to get on. The big difference is the slightly padded tongue with a hidden elastic strap underneath, which ensures a snug fit and gives you the option to wear them laceless as a slip-on. Japanese designer Chitose Abe recently revisited this concept for her Air Max 90 Sacai x Nike collaboration.
The suede label on the tongue is Maison Margiela's trademark insignia, a series of numbers denoting the various collections by the fashion house. The circled number on the tag corresponds to which collection it falls under. In this case, it's the number 22, denoting these sneakers as part of Margiela's men's footwear line.
The inner lining is also made of leather, which adds to the luxe appeal. A label on the sole denotes the "replica" status of the sneaker and pays homage to the circa '70s Austrian sneaker that inspired it. It's a nice touch you find on a lot of Maison Margiela's Line 14, a men's collection inspired by sportswear staples like tennis cardigans, blazers, and peak-lapel topcoats. Unlike the more avant-garde Line 10 men's collection, Line 14 skews more towards classic than avant-garde.
Up Close: Bundeswehr BW Sport GAT
Retail price: ~$35-80, available at grailed.com
Composition: Leather/Cotton
These particular BW Sport Germany Army Trainers were picked up at a vintage store in Paris. They're plentiful in European thrift and vintage shops, and you can usually find piles of them:
I've seen them in stores everywhere from Milanese consignment stores to vintage shops in Amsterdam. They're about as ubiquitous as secondhand Chuck Taylors in American shops. On foot, there's a noticeable difference in quality. What the Margiela GATs have in structure the BW Sport versions don't. This is a pair of sneakers that definitely requires a breaking-in period.
Interestingly, the tongue on the BW Sport versions also features a set of numbers. It's not clear what these correlate to, but since they're standard issue, it wouldn't be totally off-base to think they correspond to style number and size. The sole says "BW-Sport 270" which corresponds to the "270" that begins the set of numbers on the tongue, too.
The split-toe detail on these sneakers is also covered in a gray suede, though it definitely doesn't feel as nice as the material on the Margielas.
Sole Comparison
The soles look pretty much the same, but up close you can really tell the difference. The Margielas have a more classic, sap-like gum color and feel, while the BW-Sport versions are a darker brown and feel less responsive. There's also the aforementioned "BW-Sport 270" on the sole, but the fact that they have the same pivot points on the soles is really interesting.
Silhouette Comparison
The vintage BW-Sport sneakers are decidedly a bit leaner than the Margielas, due to its lack of lining. They're more breathable at the cost of being less comfortable. I wore both for a few days each to test out the comfort, and the Margiela versions undoubtedly have the vintage ones beat.
The padded sole, elastic tongue strap, and leather lining just feel better than the minimal cotton lining on the BW-Sport versions. Also, even though I had threaded the laces through the tongue, there was still noticeable slip with each wear—which as most sneakerheads know, is super annoying.
On Foot: Bundeswehr BW Sport GAT
Final verdict: Definitely not a bad pickup for the price. Ideal for the types of dudes who are down to "get the look" but can't really drop a lot of dough on the designer versions. They're definitely adequate if you just want to fill a gap in your minimal shoe collection and are adamant that you need at least one pair of white GATs. As a summer shoe, you can't go wrong for the price, but if you're expecting to wear these in super cold weather, you'd better get extra thick socks.
On Foot: Maison Margiela Line 22 GAT
Final verdict: Yup, they're expensive, but these are a shoe you cop once and keep forever. I think if you're on the fence about saving up, they're one of the few "investment pieces" that actually are worth it in terms of cost-per-wear. The sheer versatility of a minimal white low top with a gum sole far outweighs any hyped release. As far as silent killers go, the Margiela GAT is like a neck-breaker for a certain subset of elevated sneakerheads. They communicate a different taste level while to outsiders, just look good.
If the price point is turning you off, patience is the key. If you look hard enough, you're bound to come across a gently-used pair for a good price, or may be lucky enough to cop them at a discount. Or if you're fortunate enough to be traveling to Europe in the near future, the Euro's current conversion rate is in the dollar's favor, so copping them for retail overseas and getting the VAT refund on your way back actually puts these more in the ballpark of $250, which isn't bad at all.
