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This winter has proved to be a brutal one. The continuous snow and cold fronts have left teeth chattering and breath visible, but warming up can be as simple as pouring a glass of wine. Wine enthusiasts get your pen and paper out.
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Alsatian-Style Pinot Gris
Long before Pinot Grigio became the light bodied, go-to summer sipper for so many, there was Pinot Gris. Even though they are produced from the same grape, there’s a world of difference between these two expressions. Alsatian Pinot Gris’ are full bodied, with a deep yellow color and a distinct silky texture that is often described as “oily.” These wines can be powerful, aromatic and spicy. Aside from Alsace, you can find richer styles of Pinot Gris from Oregon, New Zealand, Australia and Washington. Try wines from these producers: Albert Mann, Domaine Ostertag, Belle Pente, Domaine Weinbach, Eyrie Vineyards, Robert Sinskey and Spy Valley.
Furmint
For those who have never heard of Furmint, it is the base grape for the legendary Hungarian sweet wine, Tokaji. What’s less known about Furmint is the single-varietal dry versions that are slowly making their way to the US market. These wines have a degree of depth and complexity due to their naturally high acidity and notes of pears, green apple, lime, grapefruit and smoke. Look for bottles of dry Tokaji or bottles that are labeled Furmint. The pickings will be slim, but these are interesting wines that are well worth trying. Some recommended producers: Kiralyudvar, Hetszolo, Chateau Pajzos and Heidi Schrock.
Friulano
Friulano, also known as Sauvignon Vert and formerly known as Tocai Friulano, can produce very attractive wines that are reminiscent of Sauvignon Blancs with a less assertive flavor profile. These wines express a degree of delicacy while still managing to be very aromatic and high in alcohol (with levels spiking above 14% not uncommon). There’s no better way to shake the winter chill. Producers to look for: Castello di Spessa, Muzic, La Roncaia, Marco Felluga and Radicon.
Malvasia
The indigenous Mediterranean grape Malvasia is probably best known as the base for the sweet wine Malmsey; however, there are excellent dry versions that can be found in Northern Italy and Slovenia. These wines are generally fuller-bodied and very aromatic with a flavor profile that suggests peaches, apricots, nectarines and white cherries. These wines can have fairly high alcohol levels and, at times, some residual sugar. Look for drier styles from these producers: Edi Kante, Massa Vecchia, Borgo di Colloredo, Movia and Skerk.
Grenache Blanc
Grenache Blanc is widely planted throughout France’s Rhone Valley, where it is used as a blending grape. But I find it performs exceptionally well in Spain, particularly in Priorat or Terra Alta. Much like many of the other wines, Grenache Blancs tend to be fuller-bodied with higher alcohol and can withstand oak ageing. The flavors most often associated with Grenache Blanc are green apple, mandarin orange and licorice. Fantastic examples can be found in Spain, California and France. Try these: Edmunds St. John, Tensley Wine Company, Donkey & Goat, Clos Figueres, Domaine du Clos des Fees and Edetaria.
Chenin Blanc
The often-underrated Chenin Blanc really has it all, and it’s surprising that this wine hasn’t caught on with the general public yet. It has the depth of flavor and acidity to rival Riesling, enough body to satisfy the Chardonnay drinker, great ageing potential and works well in a variety of styles (sweet, dry, sparkling). Chenin Blanc also pairs well with a wide variety of foods, from light salads to spicy Asian cuisine. Young Chenin Blanc often has flavors that suggest pear, peach and pineapple, but as it ages, deeper honey and chamomile flavors begin to emerge. Chenin Blanc is primarily found in France’s Loire Valley but great expressions are also produced in South Africa (where it’s called Steen), The United States and New Zealand. Try out these producers: Nicolas Joly, A.A. Badenhorst, Domaine Huet, Domaine Closel and L’Ecole No. 41.
Marsanne
Marsanne is most often associated with the Northern Rhône, but you can find examples from other parts of the world as well. The Marsanne grape (often blended with Roussane) produces wines that are deep in color and full-bodied with a flavor profile that suggest pears and fall spices. Marsannes can be quite high in alcohol and can stand up to oak aging, making them ideal winter whites. Try examples from: August Clape, Torbreck, Domaine Saladin and Cowhorn Vineyard & Garden.
Viognier
Very aromatic and high in alcohol, Viognier can be quite intoxicating, literally and figuratively. In fact, Viogner can be so rich with flavors and aromas of exotic fruits and spices that it pairs nicely with winter cuisine. Because Viogniers can be so rich (alcohol levels spiking above 14%), it’s best to try a few different wines and pick the style that best suits your personal taste. You can find fantastic examples from all over the world, but these producers are a good starting point: Cold Heaven, Anne Amie, Condrieu, Yves Cuilleron and Yalumba.
Gewürztraminer
Difficult to spell and pronounce, Gewürztraminer is a highly underrated grape. It is also known by the name Traminer in Northern Italy (where it is believed to have originated). Wines produced from this grape have big personalities: generally very aromatic with notes of lychee, tropical fruits and flowers, particularly roses. Gewürztraminer pairs especially well with spicy foods (one way to get rid of the winter chill) and pungent cheeses. A few top producers are: Abbazia di Novacella, Elena Walch, J. Hofstatter, Laurent Barth, Kofererhof and Casa Marin.
Oak Aged Chardonnay
Not all whites can handle oak aging. Chardonnay is notorious for being the preeminent oak-friendly white wine, and there’s no shortage of it on the market. However, the length of time and type of barrel used can have a drastic effect on the end-product. Find the style that best fits your taste with these producers: Guy Roulot Meursault, Gary Farrell, Clendenen Family Vineyards, Littorai and DeLoach.