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Riesling may be one of wine’s most misunderstood grapes, often receiving strong reactions—both positive and negative. Riesling has garnered a reputation for being sweet, and many people dismiss it as such. However, Riesling can also be bone-dry, and its naturally high acidity makes it possibly the most food-friendly wine and a fan favorite of foodies and sommeliers alike.
Despite there being many great Rieslings from Oregon, Canada, Chile, New Zealand, New York, and other areas of the world, the cream of the crop is produced in Alsace, Austria, and Germany. These regions set the stage for what Riesling could and should be; three different countries with three distinct styles, all made from one very special grape. Enjoy.
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Domaine Weinbach, Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $50
This Domaine dates back to the early 1600s and historically has produced concentrated, floral, and dry Rieslings. There are several exceptional Rieslings from Domaine Weinbach, but the Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine is a standout. This wine has such a presence that it will make you feel better about yourself just by drinking it.
Franz Hirtzberger, Smaragd Singerriedel
Region: Wachau, Austria
Price: $90
The steep and geologically complex Singerriedel hillside may be the greatest vineyard site in the Wachau, and fortunately winemaker Franz Hirtzberger owns a large part of it. He and his son are both perfectionists and it shows: Their wines embody strength, elegance and structure.
Dönnhoff, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle
Region: Nahe, Germany
Price: $70
The Dönnhoff family owns plots in some of the best vineyards in the Nahe, and winemaker Helmut Dönnhoff is remarkably skilled at coaxing out the subtle differences from each. Probably the most famous vineyard in the Nahe, wines produced from Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle are intensely focused and easily would have outlived Methuselah (the oldest guy in the Bible, for those who are unfamiliar).
Domaine Ostertag, Grand Cru Muenchberg
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $47
The wines of André Ostertag cannot be overlooked when compiling a list of great Rieslings. André is a pioneer in the region and ardent advocate for natural wines. At their best, the wines of Domaine Ostertag are sublime. These wines evoke a sense of place (the French call this terroir): they are subtle, nuanced and thought-provoking. The Muenchberg plot dates back to the 11th century when it was first cultivated by Cistercian monks and now produces some of Ostertag's best Rieslings.
Van Volxem, Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp
Region: Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
Price: $45
Deeply textured and drier than one would expect from a German Riesling, the wines of Van Volxem are unlike any other in Germany. The dedication to natural winemaking practices (no pesticides in the vineyards and only natural yeast) and age of the vines (some as old as 125 years) create these unique wines. Scharzhofberger Pergentsknoop is thought by many to be Germany's greatest vineyard and wines produced from this area are practically magical.
Keller, Dalsheim Hubacker
Region: Rheinhessen, Germany
Price: $65
A perennial favorite of mine, Keller's Hubacker Riesling never lacks intensity. These wines are vibrant and brilliant, and the intense flavors of fruit and earth seem to go on and on without being exhausting. If you want to experience the full power of Riesling, look no further.
Nikolaihof, Vom Stein Smaragd
Region: Wachau, Austria
Price: $55
The first biodynamic winery in Europe (think of the ultimate organic farming), Nilolaihof wines are meant for ageing. Which is not to say that they don't taste great in their youth, but to really appreciate these wines you must give them time. Elegant, focused and very aromatic, these wines tend to be less fruity than other Rieslings. Instead, they show a spicy and herbaceous side kept in check by high acidity and a fine mineral finish.
Koehler-Ruprecht, Kallstadter Saumagen Spatlese Trocken
Region: Pfalz, Germany
Price: $35
Yet another estate with a rich history (dating back to the 1700s) and adherence to natural farming (I'm sensing a pattern here), this small winery has maintained its world-class status for over 30 years. Saumagen, which literally translates to "pig's stomach," is named after the shape of the vineyard and the region's most famous local dish. The vineyard was established in 1810 in an area that was a limestone quarry during Roman times, so the powerful mineral backbone of these wines should come as no surprise.
Robert Weil, Kiedrich Grafenberg Spatalese
Region: Rheingau, Germany
Price: $75
Sought after by aristocracy and wine lovers all over the world, Robert Weil is amongst the wine elite of Germany. Over the years, his winery has grown considerably but has not lost its knack for producing top-notch Rieslings. With bottles from the late 1800s still drinking well, these wines seem to be immortal. If you're looking for must-try Rieslings, why not enjoy the same wine served to the likes of Queen Victoria and Emperor Wilhelm II.
Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, Grand Cru Rangen "Clos Saint Urbain"
Region: Alsace, France
Price: $85
In reference to winemaker Olivier Humbrecht, I will quote a well-known wine writer, "[Domaine Zind-Humbrecht] may well be the finest winemaker in the world." Truth be told, I agree. The wines of Domaine Zind-Humbrecht are almost mythical. They are serious-yet-playful, intense-yet-ethereal. The Clos Saint Urbain is a powerful wine with a distinct flinty aroma. There is definitely fruit on the palate, but it remains subtle and understated. Depending on the vintage the wines can range from dry to off-dry. Regardless, they are always scrumptious